Day 7: Colca Canyon

Early start today to make it out to Colca Canyon in time to see the condors particular to the area. Knowing there wasn't much in the line of breakfast for me, I popped out to the market and, with curious locals eyeballing me, ordered a hot quinoa and apple juice drink... which came in a plastic bag! Given how cold it was, my breakfast in a bag also doubled as a hand warmer!

Aboard our little bus once more, absorbing yet more of this gorgeous region, we made various stops en route where we were encouraged to take photos and buy stuff. To be honest, after a while, these different stops all start to merge together... I started to feel a bit saturated and aware that as tourists, you're no more that a walking bag of money to the natives. How and ever, when the opportunity to pet a super fluffy, super cute baby llama presented itself, I happily stepped into the tourist trap, complete with profile-worthy selfies with said ball of adorable fluff (For shame...)

Tourism cynicism aside, I was amazed to see and learn about the Colca Canon. It's the third deepest canyon in the world (Grand Canyon is fifth) and measures 4km from the highest point to the deepest part of the canyon. There, on the rock faces of the canyon, nest the majestic condors.

We joined gangs of other tourists crowding around the viewing platform in the hope of catching a glimpse. Straight off I saw two of these impressive creatures gliding elegantly around their nests below. Interestingly, we learned that condors ONLY glide. They don't flap their wings! They glide on thermal winds through the canyon.

As we all squeezed together, the whole spectrum of tourist could be seen. From the noisy chatty tourist who barely knew why they were where they were, to the hardcore telephoto-lens-toting tourist who felt it their duty to police condor watching etiquette. One girl sitting near me, kept turning around to glare and periodically shush the harmless giggling tourists behind us, which was far more disruptive and irritating than the noise they were making! At one point I snapped and muttered "shush yourself"... I think she may have heard me...

Anyway, perched as close to the edge as was safe, I was thrilled every time a condor came into view, sailing effortlessly through the air. Against the shaded backdrop of the ravine, these dark figures caught the light and were mesmerising as they glided great distances with the apparent lightness of a feather. More than once, I lost my breath as a condor would suddenly appear, close enough to see the detail of their plumage. It was a special experience - easy to see why it's as overrun with tourists as it is really...

Condors can only really be seen for a few hours in the morning as they set out for food, so thereafter we went for a short trek along the canyon, a sort of test of how we were taking to the altitude, before climbing back on our bus.

After another delicious buffet lunch, we togged out to go to hot springs. Down by the river, a series of thermal baths are situated with the spectacular backdrop of the mountains. Given how cold it was out of the sunshine (and in our fridge like accommodation!) these hot springs were a welcome relief from the cold! Swapping between the hot water of the baths and the cold water of the river was so nice... we all felt great after!

Dinner this evening was accompanied by a Peruvian pipe band and traditional dancers. For the insane price of S25 I had a high quality three course meal. As we ate the dancers in their colourful attire performed... and then pulled audience members from the audience to participate! Yours truly was one of the first red-faced suckers pulled up to make a fool of myself! But as the evening progressed (and the dances got weirder!) no one in the crowd was safe! It all felt a little makey-uppy, but who cares! Fun is fun.

Back out into the cold night air, a hot chocolate (enhanced by a drop of Baileys and wifi) on the way home set us up for a good nights sleep.

Accommodation: Casa de Lucila
Weather: Cold in the morning - warm clothes, hats and scarves required but also sunglasses for the strong sun; hot in the afternoon; a deep chill in the evening air. Weather of extremes in this area.