So here I am in Peru. My long anticipated trip to South America is finally happening! It's the end of my first day in the Southern Hemisphere and so far so great (apart from British Airways losing my checked bag... that's less great...)!
First impressions of Lima? Chocka-block with traffic, people everywhere and generally a busy, buzzy atmosphere. It's not the prettiest place I've been; ultimately it's a sprawling city of 8 million people, but there are enough parks and open spaces to provide reprieve from the chaos of traffic that permeates the city; and the locals use them to the max. Every park I encountered was filled with life and music and often delicious smells wafted about from the different food stalls. There was almost a festival atmosphere about the place.
The architecture is a mish-mash of low-rise colonial architecture, which is colourful and sometimes lavish with detail, and high-rise modern or brutalist buildings in concrete, and to a lesser extent (that I've noticed over the course of a day at least!), glass. Seemingly theres no in between. It's common to see a two-story colonial house neighboured with a 10-15 story apartment or office building.
The city has an overall impression of being a little run down, but I wouldn't say poor. I passed numberous building sites (one with a cavernous basement), so, someone has money!
My experience of the Peruvians is that in person they are polite and helpful, but behind the wheel they're mentalists. There are a lot of beat-up cars on the road, and it's clear to see why! Also, there are private buses that go around with dudes hanging out the side shouting at pedestrians, touting their service. Between the din of multi lanes of traffic, the constant beeping of horns and the various bus conductors shouting, it can be a noisy place!
So, my trip so far:
Friday 26th
4am start. Dublin to London - 1 hour. London to Lima - 3 good movies, two terrible meals and 12.5 hours later I arrived in Lima Airport around 1am(7pm local time). And my bag did not come out at the baggage reclaim. Filed report then wearily wandered into the arrivals lounge. Never been so happy to see my name written on a board! An hour long car ride practicing my Spanish and trying to not look scared as he dodged cars and took mad routes around the sprawling urban centre. Arrived at my hotel and checked into my room which despite smelling oddly like Chinese food, was a sight for the sore eyes of an exhausted traveler. A quick trip to the shop to buy a phone charger (10 Peruvian Soles which is €2.70!) and a toothbrush. A quick tin of tuna (you try being a coeliac in a strange place) and after 24hours awake, I tucked myself into the creaky bed and fell fast asleep.
The next morning was consumed with unsuccessfully trying to track my missing bag and nerding up on the locale before setting out for the day. Cool and overcast, I set out about 11:30am, wandering from my Hostel in Barranco towards the popular district of Miraflores. En route I stopped to check out Graftons Architects funky, concrete university building (I was shocked that even though I'm an architect they wouldn't let a complete stranger with no official business in to wander around private areas!). After that I wandered about Miraflores (shopping for basic essentials all the while) before hunting for my lunch venue.
On Calle Berlin, I found the dodgy looking seafood restaurant, with messages scrawled all over the walls and dated furniture and shabby decor, that my friend suggested. Even though this place came highly recommended, I ordered the traditional Peruvian Ceviche (raw fish marinated in lemon) with trepidation. Imagining my future self with my head down the toilet, I tentatively put a small piece of this rather unappealing lump of soggy fish in my mouth. I was pleasantly surprised!Really, really good (and no sickness ensued).
After lunch I decided to head into the centre: this meant getting a bus. S/1.50(€0.40) got me a ticket on a bus that took half an hour to the centre. Because Lima is set out on a grid plan, the bus follows a straight bus corridor that effectively extends the length of this expansive city. I was pretty clueless about where I was going, or where I needed to get off and I only had a crappy printed map and no wifi so my only option was to open my mouth.
Approaching my stop we passed some of these incredible parks that I talked about earlier: green and leafy and full of people chilling on the grass and walking around. So, I hopped off and strolled around to suck up the atmosphere. This was where the art Museum was and there was a food festival in the adjoining park. I continued through the centre, making my way to the Plaza Mayor, walking through, what I can only describe as Grafton Street at Christmas on speed. Except, everyone is tanned and everyone is pretending they're not bemused by the pasty, tall stranger in their midst.
I made it to the Plaza Mayor, a little taken aback by the presence of riot police and army men armed with machine guns and riffles, where there was the changing of the guard at the government buildings, complete with tanks. My curiosity led me a little further to the river and across, and there was a palpable shift in atmosphere. I began to feel really self conscious, where I'd otherwise felt safe, so decided to not push it and head back.
Back on the bus, I headed to the hostel and, because I totally underestimated how far I'd travelled (1hr 10 on the bus) I was late for my welcome meeting for my travel group. Nevertheless, I met the gang of 18 and we were briefed on our upcoming tip. Our leader, a slow talking Peruvian, then took us to a local eatery down the road for dinner. A family restaurant (3 generations we were told) adorned with Peruvian parafernalia (accompanied by a bunch of faded photos of American popstars for good measure) we had a traditional meal accompanied by a tasty (oh so tasty) pisco sour. All the while, an elderly man tinkered away on a piano, occasionally accompanied by the restaurant owner on guitar and singing, which was so charming.
The legs walked off myself, and slightly tipsy, I crawled into bed (now sharing a room with a fellow solo traveller) and shut my eyes, ready for the adventure to really begin.
Weather: cool and overcast in the morning; hot, sunny and muggy in the afternoon; balmy in the evening
Accommodation: Hostel Gemina (basic), Barranco.