Day 12: Lares Trek

After our spontaneous night dancing in the square, we were up early to head out into the Andes. Half the group were doing the Inca trail and the rest were doing the Lares Trek. At 8am we were picked up by our trekking guide Roddy. We had with us only a day bag for water/snacks etc and we were provided with a small duffle bag for spare clothes that would be carried for us by porters with mules or horses.

The Lares Trek passes through the valleys were the indigenous Andean people live, so en route, we stopped in a market to buy gifts for them like toy cars, hair bands, biscuits, bread, balls etc.

After a few hours winding around very narrow mountain roads we reached Lares town and the trek began. It was a bright day and the sun was warm, so we happily set off in our shorts and t-shirts. We trekked through the rich, green valley along a rushing, rocky stream before our first "eco-toilet" break and a lesson on coco leaves. There we met the first Andean children. We had a short lesson in Quecha (their mother tongue) learning to say "thank you/you're welcome" (sulpykee), "what's you're name?" (i-man zutiki?) and "my name is" (zutimi). We gave them some of the gifts, shared some greetings and continued on our way.

A short while later, among the trees, we stopped for lunch. The porters had travelled ahead of us, set up a marquis and had begun preparing a hot three course meal for us! The food was so fresh (trout caught from the river beside us) and so tasty! It's hardly roughing it with that standard of service.

After lunch we continued along The Valley on a very straight forward road. Clouds came and sat over the mountains and brought with it a chill. Layering back up, we continued on.

At one point, Roddy stopped us. He disappeared around a rocky pass and a short time later emerged accompanied by a very tiny and very elderly lady. He introduced her to us as his mountain grandmother. He told us she was 102 (not before asking us all to guess her age in a rather undignified manner). This woman had lived her entire life in The Valley, and knew nothing of modern life, not even being able to afford electricity. Roddy gifted her with food and coffee and cocoa leaves, for which she seemed very grateful. Her hard life was wrought over her face and skin, yet, even at her age, was independent and engaged - perhaps due to the way of life that still exists there today.

As day turned to dusk we arrived at our base camp which had toilet facilities and a small, basic structure as our dining hall. Already our tents had been erected and our rented sleeping bags and air mattresses were ready to be collected. A little freshening up and we were ushered in for "happy hour" (dinner). Another fine meal complete with hot drinks warmed us up as temperatures plummeted. At this altitude, 3,800m above sea level, temperatures at night would be hard to bear. Half joking/half serious we entertained the notion of cuddling for warmth during the night and I acquired a new Spanish word: "acurrucarse".

After a short while huddling together for warmth around the table, we resigned the fact that we'd better try to sleep. With no light, no entertainment, it didn't seem like we'd many other options! So, with three pairs of socks, leg warmers, two pairs of trousers, three tops, a jacket and a hat, I snuggled into my sleeping bag and by 8pm was ready for sleep! Me and my fellow Irish tent mate Laura, braced ourselves for the bitterly cold night ahead.

Regretfully, an over consumption of hot drinks required a midnight toilet visit. I lay there for a long time before I willed myself to get out of the sleeping bag and into the cold night air. But, was pleasantly surprised. The night was crisp, but as the clouds had lifted the sky was illuminated by the moon. So bright was it that it cast a shadow! My headlamp wasn't required and I managed to enjoy the peace and beauty of the silver light and silent mountain night.

Accommodation: 2 man tent
Weather: hot and then freezing cold at night.
Distance covered: 10km