Day 341, 10 June 2013, Aguas Calientes, Peru. Travel Day! - automobile, bus, train. It was a huge struggle getting up at 6 am when the first alarm went off. Whilst still flopping around in the dark like untrained seals, the second alarm went off - Aarrrgh! Well and truly up by then. Due to heavy rains and major repairs required to the train tracks over the last few months, the first part of the journey was a taxi to the bus station, then onto a bus for an hour and a half through the Peruvian countryside. Finally, it was onto PeruRail's VistaDome service for the final hour and a half of stunning scenery. Wending our way through incredibly lush countryside, the source of Cuzco's cold air became apparent - massive mountains dusted with snow. The train took us down 1000 metres and eventually the change in altitude made us a bit perkier. We arrived just after lunchtime in Aguas Calientes (or Hot Waters... because of the thermal springs). Whilst a very touristy town (everyone visiting Machu Picchu has to come here), it is also gorgeous. Hugged by towering granite cliffs, cradled between two roaring, rushing rivers, it has the same air of magic as Cesky Krumlov in Czech Republic and Cappadocia in Turkey. We would have enjoyed visiting here even without Machu Picchu. There are multitudes of plants everywhere - adding to the impression the oxygen count has gone through the roof. We knew our hostel was within a few minutes walk of the railway station. Didn't actually know which direction, but found a map along the way and the locals speak much better English than we do Spanish... so we were there within 10 minutes. First item of business was dropping our bags. Second and most important, was making way with haste to the ticket office for Machu Picchu - there was a glitch with our online booking so we didn't have the tickets we thought we had. No problems however - still 200 available of the 2500 allocated for tomorrow. Tickets secured, we investigated the bus to get the final leg of the journey - 20 minutes on a winding road up to the historic site. Tickets purchased for the bus and safely stowed, we shared a burger, took a nap and the day cooled down around us. When we checked in at Adelas Hostel, we had a choice of a Riverside Room or a Train side room - the hostel, like much of Aguas Calientes, is on the rail line. We thought "water view" for sure and are so glad we did - the river provides a constant rushing roar and the window opened up completely - it felt like we had a room on top of the river. Aside from anything else, the hypnotic sound of the rushing waters pretty much drowned out the sound of the trains heading past periodically! The evening cooled rapidly as we wandered up and down the cobbled streets in this car-free oasis. The prices here reflect the amount of tourist wallets available for milking but we finally found a deal and had dinner for about $14 (if you went to the candlelit places with a river view... it would be easy to blow $100). We browsed the stores, stroked the alpaca sweaters, laughed at the little soft toy guinea pigs and let our eyes sparkle whilst checking out the silver and stone inlaid jewellery. In a triumph of urban planning, the main market is right next to the train station... you actually have to walk through it to get to town. So that bore more exploring indeed. It was pitch black by 6 pm - so by 8.30 pm it felt very late indeed and it was back to the digs to pack a day bag for the expedition to Machu Picchu tomorrow. Paperwork fiesta - bus tickets (check), entry tickets (check), vouchers to exchange for buffet lunch (check), passports to prove we are the people entitled to use all of the above (check). Then a few other necessities... water, sunscreen, sun-hats, bug stuff. Planning on a late-ish start tomorrow... alarm for 5.45 am (the really keen types are up at 4.45 am for breakfast then onto the first bus at 5.30 am. We are keen - just not that keen).
View from our window is today's picture.