Day 67, 9 September 2012. Marrakech - The Big Square - Djemma el Fna. Navigating to and from the Riad by day and by night. Firstly - today's cover image to us epitomises the concept of nose to tail eating which is fashionable in some circles - from the dead beast to the leather shoes in the shop immediately next door - wow. We passed this odd juxtaposition of shops in the laneway between our riad and the main square in the middle of the old city. We used our directions from the riad and were suitably impressed when we got there. It's not as though we need more "stuff" in our lives - it was difficult enough packing up the house when we left on our current travels. But gee - we could spend some money here. Our favourite item was a massive claw foot bathtub in a beaten silver coloured metal. Amazing - as were the lovely leather shoes, bags, carpets and floor cushions. The square during the day was full of snake charmers of all things - each with an umbrella and a large selection of snakes getting into the groove to loud drums and snake-charmy tunes on various instruments. We eventually stopped for a rest and a juice and met the tortoise we have christened "Speedy". At first we thought he was a rock. But then he moved, very slowly, in the direction of his fresh lettuce leaves! Today was 10 Euro day - as we don't like buying things on our first day in a new town. Rather, we exist on the minimum of cash and find out what everything costs. Vendors have issues with the concept of tourists not carrying money and plastic - they will get over it. We spent the afternoon at the riad, near the pool, and didn't leave again until sunset - and the square had come to life. Orange juice sellers had multiplied by a factor of 10 but vertical differentiation is non-existent. It is all orange juice. It is all 4 dirhams (50 cents). It is all the same. The food stalls that spit fire and clouds of smoke in the air are all somewhat different - some specialise in sheeps' heads (yup - waste not, want not) and the locals eat the gooey insides out with spoons. Some stalls sell hard boiled egg sandwiches and others sell Moroccan classics - tagines and cous cous. Obviously 10 Euros doesn't go far - but we bought a kilo of fruit (banana, peaches, grapes), some peanuts, juice, postcards, bottled water, chicken cous cous and ice creams in the course of our big day out. As we ventured back into the darkening alley ways we were glad we knew exactly where we were going - we came across two westerners with backpacks and maps who really should have been settled by 10 pm - but no doubt a friendly local took them to their lodgings. Eventually. For a small "appreciation". It's just that kind of place. Off to a garden once owned by Yves St Laurent tomorrow - Les Jardins Majorelle. And further movement is afoot at the riad. Tomorrow we are being upgraded to a room twice the size (and price) for the next 5 nights. Au revoir la chambre Iman - Bonjour la chambre Dellah!
www.lesjardins-mandaline.com