Day 216, 5 February 2013, Roma, Italia.
We decided to hit the other big ticket Roma Pass item (€13) this morning and had our host phone a reservation through to the Borghese Gallery - even though it's low season, Rome's big attractions are still busy. Thankfully though, because it's low season, we were able to go today (usually you have to reserve the day before). We nipped off to our local metro stop (Manzoni) and hopped the A Line to Barberini. (Loving the place names. Feel like we're in the Godfather). Getting incredible use out of the free public transport included in the Roma Pass. Found a bus heading in the right direction and before we knew it we were at the Gallery.... 2 hours early for our reserved entry time. Never fear, after waxing lyrical about the efficency of Roman public transport we were allowed in early - and have discovered a new found passion for the sculptures of Bernini. It is incredible to think such beauty could be trapped in a cold block of marble and released in such a way that any other form is now unthinkable. James is quick to point out, and I would agree, it would be interesting to know how often he redesigned a masterpiece when the misplaced chip of a chisel lopped off an otherwise important part... The paintings at the Borghese were stunning but the sculptures were the highlight (www.galleriaborghese.it).
Due to Rome's diabolical one way system (newly discovered by us), we found out the hard way that we couldn't just cross the road and get a bus back to where we started. So instead we decided to roam (geddit?) the back streets back to Barberini and discovered a hole in the wall type pizza bar that sells by the gram. Sort of like a drug dealer for pizza. Yummo! So for €2 each we were refueled and ready to go.
We eventually found a bus pointing in the same direction as us and headed off to the Fontana di Trevi/Trevi Fountain - We each threw a coin in - it might well be lucky, and if not it nevertheless ensures we return to Rome. I don't know if they have people for it, or perhaps a massive swimming pool creepy-crawly to snaffle up the money each day, but given the hordes at the fountain we are in the wrong business.
We truly had a day of back streets and continued to follow the monuments across Rome (starting to feel a bit like a Dan Brown novel. If you are amongst the 2-3 people in the world who never read the Da Vinci Code or Angels & Demons - go forth. Read.)
The Pantheon was stunning. I read somewhere the great occulus (big window at the top of the dome) allows prayers to float freely towards heaven. Or alternatively was where the demons tunnelled their way out when the previously Pagan temple was consecrated as a church. The first explanation resonated with me! We had another Bernini "fix" at the Piazza Navona - so many fountains, so little time. Then for something completely different we went to Campo de Fiori (or Field of Flowers). A square with many vegetable sellers and flower sellers - pretty, even at the end of the market day with many stalls closed. The flowers that were left were gorgeous splashes of colour as the clouds closed in and the drizzle started to mean business. Being so far from our hotel and with an hour or so left in our feet, we found a bus heading towards Castel Sant'Angelo and from there took in the stunning views - including our first of St Peter's Basilica in the Vatican. The silvery gray dome was stunning even in the distance. The Castle has been used for many things over the years - not least of which the mausoleum for the Emperor Hadrian back in 130 AD. (Did I mention it's Bernini time again - angels crafted by his followers adorn the bridge in front of the castle and from the bastions we can see his Saints standing watch over St Peter's square. We finally gave in, foot sore and weary, and enjoyed a coffee at the little coffee shop at the very top of the castle - suffocation by great art on all sides was imminent. Eventually we meandered down to the ground floor via an internal ramp - amused by the signs warning of the uneven floor due to it's age. Unlike the wonderful cobbles in The Shambles in York (UK), due to be ripped up after 600 years, I can't see Rome renovating it's historic treasures anytime soon. We found a bus just across the way and headed back to Termini station for dinner. (NB - next time you're in Rome, avoid the pizza, avoid the pasta. Head for the indian shops where half a chicken, salad, chips and bread costs only €4. Bargain.) Slogged to lodgings (well, zipped by metro - just felt like we slogged), showered, changed, added more layers, and out we went to finish our night with an Opera Recital at Chiesa di San Paolo Entro le Mura (St Paul's within the Walls). Yes. There is one outside the walls too. The three fantastic singers (soprano, mezz and tenor) played to a full church - albeit a freezing one. We had planned for this in advance - face it, how often are churches cozy... but still - we were walking ice-blocks by the time it finished. Well worth the €15/20 ticket price - www.ivirtuosidellaoperadiroma.com.
We are absolute experts on Rome public transport by the end of the evening and wander, tired but happy, back to the Repubblica metro stop - enjoying once more the stunning lights and Fountain of the Naiads in Piazza della Repubblica (pictured).