I travelled to Sogamoso on Monday (26th)-it was a short journey. Bus from Villa de Leyva to Tunja (45 mins) then Tunja to Sogamoso (just under 90 mins I think). The bus people make me laugh, they sell it as "Sogamoso directo" then once it sets off you find out it's stopping in Paipa! Not that it really matters since it's on the way, I just don't understand why they don't say it's stopping there from the start….on arrival in Sogamoso I found a little restaurant serving almuerzo (lunch) had had probably my cheapest (proper ) lunch yet at 4,000 pesos (£1.30ish!). It was soup followed by chicken, rice, potato, beans, plantain- what a bargain! I then got a taxi to the Finca San Pedro where I was staying. It's 2km out of Sogamosa and is a lovely family run place, a finca set on lovely land, surrounded by countryside. I was greeted with a warm welcome and the offer of a drink. So I had a cup of tea whilst chatting with Gilma and one of her sons. I then decided I wouldn't be doing anything much that afternoon as I was feeling rubbish with my cold. In the evening I had an arepa and 'agua de panela' with Gilma. She put lime and ginger in it which would be good for my cold! Just googled panela so as to know exactly what it is- whole sugar cane produced in Santander and Boyacá. It is mixed with hot water to make a nice drink. Gilma had said I was welcome to go into the main house anytime which I had done to have a cup of tea. She was out and I ended up waiting in the house for a couple of hours as once it was dark the 6 big dogs who barked and surrounded the door when I opened it were too scary for me! I knew they are harmless I'm just not that great around dogs. I realise this sounds ridiculous! Luckily I have got used to them and can walk past them in both the day and evening now!

Tuesday (27th) I decided to visit the Laga de Tota- Lake Tota. It is Colombia's largest freshwater lake at 7.5 miles long by 29 miles wide. It's also its highest at 3005 metres. The bus to Aquitania, the largest town near the lake, passes by the finca so getting there was easy. Fantastic views of the mountains and countryside on the way and then we drove around the lake. The area immediately next to the lake is flat with lots of fields full of onions. It's a big onion growing region and the fields are full of green shoots. They look like spring onions, only far bigger, not the round kind. You could see people working in the fields, which I think is the first time I've seen this (or otherwise noticed it). The bus arrived at the main plaza in Aquitania, where the church was also typically located. I walked to where the bus leaves from to go to my next stop on the lake- Playa blanca (white beach). I had to wait about 40 minutes as it only goes once an hour but at 1 it arrived and we continued the drive around the lake. Once again great scenery and about 30 minutes later the driver dropped me off. It was a short walk down to playa blanca as it can't be seen from the road. The beach is beautiful! The guidebook said the white sandy beach would not seem out of place in the Caribbean which was very true, except for it being rather cold. It's at 3000 metres above sea level and also the sun was not out when I got there so it was on the chilly side! There was a bus full of Colombians (possibly a school trip) but apart from that very few other visitors so it was a very quiet place to visit. They have water sports here too (despite the cold water!) but there were none today, maybe just at the weekend. I enjoyed the views of across the lake then it started spitting so I went to the restaurant for lunch. The area is known for its trout and it also made up the majority of the menu with at least 10 choices of sauce! (though you could also have chicken or meat). It was possibly one of my most expensive lunches at 17,000 pesos(£5.60) but I felt I should sample the local fish!I chose 'a la criolla' and it came covered in a tomato based sauce (not ketchup!). The sauce was really tasty as was the fish, but although the majority of bones were gone there were still quite a few in it. I find it harder to eat with the bones and for me it was a shame it wasn't a fillet! The head was gone though (thankfully) but I found a few of its fins! Ha ha I had a warming ague de panela as I was feeling cold but luckily the sun came out after lunch so it got warmer. I headed up to the road for the bus that was due at 3.30- I thought I was in plenty of time but either it didn't come or more likely it came before I got there so I waited an hour by the roadside for the next one! Luckily it's a quiet road with only the odd passing car or truck! I decided not to risk stopping at the small towns on the way back in case I ended up missing the last bus back to Sogamoso. I'm sure the journey was scenic but I have to admit to sleeping on and off for most of the return journey!