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I woke up at 6:30. Traffic outside was already quite busy and, with the river view bedroom, I could see all the people on the "croisette" doing some sports. You know what ? They have collective sports machines there, such as the ones you can find in fitness clubs, there for anyone to use. I find this splendid ! In the evening they gather in groups and do some dancing following a leader on some groovy music (local or westerner). I therefore had the pleasure to witness a group of maybe 30 Cambodians doing a choreography on... "insane in the brain" by Cypress Hill. A long-lasting memory for sure !
I went for a walk on my own as dad was still sleeping (and slept until 9:30 ! The world is upside down ! This man has been complaining all his life about my sleeping too late... And here I am, waiting for his royal highness to wake up when i am starving to death after a two hour walk in Phnom Penh early morning... Jeeeeez !)... So, by the time he woke up, got ready, and had breakfast with me, it was already... 11:00 ! We therefore had to rush to the French embassy : indeed, we plan on attending the "Bastille day" dinner at the French ambassador's residence :-)
Believe it or not, but the touk touk drove right past my dad's former house back in 1949... and believe it or not, it's still there ! And believe it or not : it's being renovated right now ! And believe it or not... Oh well, let's skip the french embassy part (uneventful : we got our invitations, and the French abroad are still as obnoxious as usual...) and let's get to the emotional part... : yes, believe it or not but after a short talk to the renovation manager, he gently let us in to visit the house... And - oh my god - can you believe the new owner is smart enough to renovate it as it was back then - "pre-war" as they say - and eve the tiles on the floor are still the same !!! Unbelievable ! Same as 62 years ago, after a civil war, a genocide, a ghost town... Wow. Emotions. Dad was not hoping that much... And there it was...
There it was, as if it was waiting for us... We got in there. Dad showed me around : "there's the dining room, and that's where dad used to have his desk... Oh this is where he was building some cabinets and stuff..." - "oh, where was the kitchen ?" - "oh, the kitchen was outside the main house, in the servants quarters..." Incredible. The massive stairway going to the first floor was the same as back then. Dad told me how much he played on it with his older brother Jacques... To the dismay of their mother... My granny... I could picture her in there. And it goes on : "That was the parent's bedroom and their dressing room... Here was my bedroom and there was Jacques'... Oh and here, against the wall, was dad's rifle collection... These were the rifles we used to take, Jacques and I, to shoot the birds in the big tree outside..."... And the story goes on and on and on... The workers there, soon all aware of what is going on, look at us, all smiles. They looked amused, and even touched by the beauty of it all. Dad is back 62 years in time and his daughter is with him on this time warp... Wow. I don't know who's the most emotional about his : him or me. But hey, this was something awesome...
Right after this we went to the genocide museum... Which we thought was dad's former school. But actually it wasn't ! Pffffeeww ! We visited the place nonetheless... Wow. It was basically a former high school transformed during the Pol Pot period into a prison and an interrogation (read torture) facility. Just a couple of numbers : 14000 people went through this prison. 8 made it out alive. No it's not a typo. Eight people survived. There are photographs everywhere in these rooms. Photographs of highly dangerous rebels, whose age range from 8 years old to 50... Looking at the photograph of an 8-year old girl, whose look is so scared, knowing she was tortured, held in those horrible cells, until she "confessed" then she was taken to the "killing field" 7 Km from there to be executed... Seeing this and realizing this is a... How can I say... Emotional experience, to say the least. You realize, again and again that there is no limit to men's stupidity and cruelty towards one another... The beautiful part of that visit was to meet one of the survivors... He's 85 and he's the director of an association dedicated to the memory of the genocide. Wow. Weird feeling... Goosebumps...
Last but not least : we found dad's real college ! A huge and beautiful school... I had no battery left so no pictures. That can't be ! I'll go back to make some :-)... Again, amazing feeling to walk this school hand in hand with my dad, knowing he had ran around like a naughty boy he was... 62 years ago.
After all those emotions, we got back to the hotel, at around 5 pm and... Slept until 8 !! Then the manager of our hotel suggested a very nice place to have dinner : the Titanic restaurant, right by the Tonle Sap river... When I saw eel was om the menu, I couldn't resist and was right not to : it was awesome... After this great meal, we walked the streets, stopped for fresh fruit, watched people in awe in front of their TV watching a thai boxing match... And headed back to the hotel... Where a TERRIBLE (and I weigh the word) band was trying to play some international covers... Well, as i told dad : I could sing better than the singer, play the guitar better than the guitar player and even play percussions better than the percussionist... We rushed to our bedroom and quickly fell asleep... What a day !
Love,
Nadege
PS : no need to say what was the highlight of the day ? :-)
PS : please comment.... This is part of my motivation to write !!!
- comments
Gaelle35 Un récit plein d'émotion..... Merci de nous le faire partager. Profites de ces instants précieux avec ton Père que tu dois découvrir sous un nouveau jour.Ouvre les yeux, sens, touches, écoutes et aimes.Bises
Ludo As I told little sis' I am envious of you. You writing about seeing that house and visiting it gives me the goosebumps.... :-) Live on!
cotcot Ma chérie, mes bras sont couverts de "carne de galinha" (cherche, tu vas comprendre !!!) à la lecture de cette extraordinaire journée avec ton père. Quelle chance il a eue de pouvoir retrouver la maison de son enfance ... et de t'avoir à ses côtés pour pouvoir partager son émotion !!! JE SUIS RAVIE ...Quant au mémorial, quelle abomination, mais vous avez eu raison d'y aller, pour toutes ces victimes, bien sûr, et pour ce vieux monsieur, ce survivant qui voit qu'on s'intéresse et qui peut témoigner; c'est certainement ce qui le maintient en vie !!Depuis ton départ les jours sont chaque fois plus passionnants ... attention à l'anti-climax, mais je sais que tu sais "regarder" et "voir" (tout le monde ne sait pas et rappelle toi, "les miracles n'arrivent pas aux indiférents" !!!)
Mini me Believe it or not, I believe you ;)Enjoy, Charlene bientôt en Asie aussi!
Nathalie c'est mieux que dans tes reves, dis moi... Et surtout que dans ceux de ton pere... Il fait le voyage de sa vie, c'est incroyable - lire tout ça me rend tres heureuse pour toi - je t'embrasse ma belle
Ludo when do we see pictures?
supet-toutounet Vraiment superbe ta journee... A la hauteur de tes attentes ?J'imagine le meme voyage avec mon pere en Tunisie ou il n'a pas remis les pieds depuis l'independance :) Ils faisaient quoi les parents de ton papa en Indochine ?Je vais aller jeter un oeil sur le site web du musee de la torture dont tu parles...
nadegeb72 Angkor ne s est pas fait en un jour pti frere... :-)
supet-toutounet Bon ben j'y suis allée sur le site du musée du génocide.... Et j'ai lu un tout petit peu sur le génocide cambodgien... Sachant que les Khmers rouges ont tue plus de 20% de la population entre 1975 et 1979, chaque Cambodgien en vie aujourd'hui a statistiquement perdu au moins un membre de sa famille directe durant la dictature. Et pourtant j'ai l'impression que les Cambodgiens en parlent peu... Je me trompe ?
supet-toutounet Superbe ! Ce type de carrelage est tres recherche maintenant !
supet-toutounet Une simple petite bicoque :)
supet-toutounet Toutes ces briques : on dirait une maison a Toulouse :)
supet-toutounet C'est fou ce que tu ressembles a ton père !!
supet-toutounet Importe de France ?
supet-toutounet Avec une station service Total juste devant la maison : vive la France monsieur :)
supet-toutounet Ca change de la chambre de ton père !
nadegeb72 Je le trouve effectivement splendide...
nadegeb72 Absolument ! Papy était tout de même conseiller du ministre des finances !
nadegeb72 "Oh mon païs" ! M'en parle pas ! J'entends que ça depuis 1 semaine ! :-))))
nadegeb72 Alors en fait, là, sur la photo, c'est mon père hein !
nadegeb72 Non les cambodgiens nous ont tout appris ! :-)))Papa dit que le bois est magnifique ici et qu'ils avaient des tourneurs sur bois français... Hence the French touch :-)
nadegeb72 Sachant que moon père a fait sa carrière chez Elf et que Total a fait une OPA sauvage sur Elf, je dirais que c'est un peu la honte en fait :-)))) c huis sûre que c'était une station Elf y'a 20 ans (la raffinerie de Sihaniukville a été construite et opérée par Elf ! Et toc !)
nadegeb72 Quel sens de l'observation ! Effectivement, le carrelage est différent !
LUDO cette baraque est absolument superbe!
supet-toutounet Tu me rassures Nadège ! Je n'osais pas te le dire (tu me connais, je n'aime pas être lourde) mais je trouvais que tu avais pris un coup de vieux. J'attribuais çà a la mauvaise literie des hôtels miteux ou tu dors depuis le début de ton voyage...
supet-toutounet Sinon la casquette rouge au Cambodge, c'est l’équivalent du casque de chantier chez nous ?
supet-toutounet Et puis le mur de briques est moins bien fini...
nadegeb72 Tiens c'est drôle : j'ai dit à papa que si tu la voyais tu voudrais absolument l'acheter :-))))))
ludo super les photos!
Mini me Ca à l'air d'être chouette le Venezuela
odada j'ai lu ton texte sur cette fabuleuse journée et je partage votre émotion...vivre un tel moment avec ton papa!! à l'autre bout du monde, c'est magnifique!j'éprouve un grand plaisir à lire ton blog continue à écrire , tu nous fais sortir la tête de nos petites vies dans ce paris grisâtre et pluvieux (on est le 23 juillet!!!) et bébé donne des coups en ce moment même! j'ai hâte de continuer à lire tes aventures, à lheure qu'il est je