We left the comfort of our camp at Engaresso after a breakfast of fried bread and the last remaining egg. With the water tank refilled, oil and water checked and the bar bill settled we headed out on the road north. The drive was incredible and PR3 ate up the miles of loose rock and steep slopes of endless wilderness. We gained height and headed into the foothills of the escarpment, not sure if we were even on the right track but after a brief conversation with ...

The noise of a helicopter landing in the adjacent field woke us early and we sat around nursing cups of tea as our French comrades finally checked out. After a relaxed start where Charlie took very little persuasion to whip up another batch of pancakes we spent a very relaxed morning by the pool. Charlie and I created noodle salad for lunch before setting off for the waterfall with our guide from the campsite. The walk took an hour or so and we followed the ravi...

It was the worst nights sleep yet. The hot and dry mosquito ridden air was completely still as we lay not knowing what to do with ourselves. I didn't get to sleep until 2am and was woken again at 6 by a cacophony of noise created by the troop of birds which lived in the dangling nests level with our tent. My lazy start revealed a hive of activity from the others. Clothes were being washed, eggs fried and coffee brewed. Bob drew the line at washing my socks so I...

Our early start was fuelled by tea and fruit as Israel and our guide friend appeared at 7am prompt to give us a tour of the Engaruka ruins. The sun filtered through the waving trees surrounding PR3 as we set off up hill heading towards the escarpment and what the lonely planet described as one of Tanzania's most 'enigmatic features'. Israel would prove to be a Tanzanian treasure but he did bang on non-stop until we reached the first inconspicuous pile of rocks. ...

Our sleep was broken by numerous loud, intimidating animal calls mixed with the reassuring sound of our guard circling the car with his rather large spear. With that comforting feeling I snuggled deep into my sleeping bag and the Masai blanket Charlie had 'borrowed' from the last lodge, trying to keep out the unfamiliar cold which we had been warned accompanied camping on the craters rim. Sunrise was a non-event and my sneaky look through the tent flap revealed a...