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The run from Hovd to Oligii started out nice, the sun was shining and the road quite fast and smooth, we stopped for morning tea by a river under a tree, it was lovely, only I had spent the night talking to the toilet and was a little under the weather. We continued on passed mountains with snow still on them and over a pass at 2600 metres, the view was spectacular. We continued on to a nice lunch spot by a lake on some grass when four motor bikes from Italy came along and stopped to swap travel stories before they continued on across the stream. We packed up and continued on crossing some more streams until we came to a crossing where Julie thought it best to get off and walk. Ben and I got across OK and waited for Julie, Ben decided to go on to find a camp site while I waited for Julie who appeared to be taking her time, but when she arrived at the bike she was clutching her left side under her armpit and was in noticeable pain and short of breath. I gave her a moment, but when she didn't appear to be getting any better I hopped off the bike to see what the problem was. She was having problems breathing and needed to sit down, so I took off her helmet and sat her next to the bike while I tried to call Ben on the UHF, but got no answer and went back to Julie who was now passing in and out of consciousness. She was't looking too good so I set off the SOS on our SPOT and hoped Ben would come back soon. When Ben arrived back we called Sarah and Richard on the satellite phone to see if they could get us advice on how to treat Julie if she was having a heart attack. While doing this Ben set up our tent so that she would have shelter and I tried to keep her awake. While all this was going on we hoped someone would come along and they did, a family of Mongolians in a 4WD came along heading to Olgii and were able to give her a lift to Tolbo where there was a hospital and this was about thirty minutes away while Olgii was nearly two hours away. We bundled Julie into the 4WD which left one passenger without a seat, a young man, so we put him on the back of our bike to follow the others to the hospital while Ben packed up everything and would meet us there. Once we arrived at the hospital the next problem was not being able to speak to the doctor, the Mongolians that had given Julie a lift had to leave and once the doctor was happy that Julie was stable she took me around town, I had no idea where we were going until we eventually knocked on the door of a small place and a lady answered in English! When this young lady came to the door she said that she did speak English but not Mongolian or Khazahk, great I thought, but it was a start. My new English speaking friend was Adi from America in Mongolia with Peace Corp helping to teach Mongolians to speak English, so she was able to take us to one of her teachers who could speak English and Khazahk. With our translator in tow we headed back to the hospital where the doctor was looking after Julie. After more checks and discussion it was decided that we would move Julie to Oglii along with Adi and the doctor, I would follow on the bike. By this time we hadn't seen Ben and I was worrying that he may have missed the turn to Tolbo but he did eventually arrive and yes, he had missed the turn. I told Ben what was happening and he thought it best if he camped the night as neither of us looked forward to riding Mongolian roads at night and it was now getting dark. By eleven at night the doctor informed us that our taxi would not eventuate that night and that we would have to wait until morning. With Julie now not looking too bad I thought that would be better anyway. In the morning Adi jumped in the taxi with Julie and we headed to Oglii. Adi was trying to get a friend to meet us at the hospital to translate for us but unfortunately this didn't happen so when we got there we had to start again. As luck would have it though we found a young man out the front that spoke English and was able to take us to see a doctor, who unfortunately couldn't do much because it was Sunday and couldn't arrange for an x-ray until Monday. So we left the hospital in search of a doctor that could help on a Sunday. We found another doctor and Adi picked up a man from the Blue Wolf Travel Agency to translate for us. After checking Julie's heart and vitals she too wanted an x-ray but couldn't do anything until Monday. So she gave Julie some pain killers and strapped her up. Meanwhile Ben had arrived and booked in at the Blue Woolf camp, so Julie and I booked our own Ger and waited for Monday when Adi would pick us up and take us to the address that the doctor had given us. The address turned out to be the hospital where we did get fast attention and Julie had an x-ray taken of her ribs. The doctor took a look and couldn't find anything so ordered Julie back to the x-ray department for a more thorough look and with more doctors in tow they came up with the diagnoses that she had pinched nerves in her back and that her heart and ribs were fine. They prescribed anti-inflammatories and pain killers and told her not to get back on the bike for seven days. So with the help of Adi and her American friends we spent the next few days hanging around Olgii, which wasn't that much fun because Julie couldn't walk too well and it was raining, again! On Thursday Julie was feeling a lot better and the sun was shining so we headed for Russia and hopefully fine weather. On the way out we stopped by a point of latitude of 90 degrease and longitude 48 degrease where some old New Zealand travelers put up a cairn when they rode through a few years ago, unfortunately the cairn was desecrated but we put it back together and left for Russia. The run to Russia was good and our concerns about Russian customs unfounded and by mid afternoon we were traveling on good Russian sealed roads until we found a camp site in the amazing Altai mountains. We had made it through Mongolia, after 3500 kilometres, of which about 2800 of those were dirt! We had dropped the bike five times, ridden through mud, sand, rock, rivers, and corrugations and we and the bikes has survived. We met some amazing people, not only locals but people from all over the world, we saw breath taking scenery, we eat food we probably don't want to know what it was, we had help from complete strangers and we made new friends. Would we go back again?? You bet, it was incredible.
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