We’re early risers this morning and the sun is shining. Ali and Grete walk into town to see the Cheese Market, traditionally held in Gouda most Thursdays. Rows of cheeses are lined up in the town square forming a yellow aisle from the Town Hall to the Weighing House. Horses and carts [known as briks] arrive as do a gang of boys ready to load them. Girls in traditional dairy maid outfits handing out tasting samples then the buyers, [in clogs, blue jackets, neckerchiefs and caps] and sellers, dressed in white coats, meet to trade.
After much tapping of the cheeses the bargaining starts with traders exchanging hand-slaps and saying ‘Nay’ until agreement is reached with a handshake.
The spectacle is described in numerous languages by a Cheese Meister in a Gaudy Gouda Yellow suit with a microphone shaped like a wedge of cheese.
As we intend to stay in town later, Nick stayed in the van reading until Ali returns at midday. After a quick sandwich we set off together for the 5 minute walk back to town.
We came to Gouda two years ago but earlier in the year when it was bitterly cold. Today with the sunshine and spring foliage it is even more enchanting.
In the main square the cheeses are being cleared away but there are many stalls sellling cheese, fish, clothing and souvenirs. Cafes are busy, bicycles buzz around but there are no cars. A proper ‘old boys’ jazz band comes marching by; the leader singing on a loudhailer, followed by washboard, trumpet, banjo and euphonium, all players dressed in colourful waistcoats and bowler hats.
The town hall is out of a fairy tale; tall clock tower, wooden shutters paindted red and white and a steep roof.
We follow the walking tour route beside quiet little canals, crossing bridges decorated with flower boxes and passing houses with heavy ornamentation, past a windmill and down to the old working boats moored at the museum.
From a streetside stall comes the aroma of stroop-waffles, sweet and cinamon with syrup, they are impossible to eat without making a mess. We resist the temptation in case it spoils dinner later, but we do take a break and linger beside a canal in the sunshine with a cold beer.
Back in the main square the market has been cleared away and a wedding party has gathered outsided the town hall where the authorities have installed a pink wedding lounge.
We visit a beer and wine shop to buy some beer glasses from the huge selection they have then head to the Zalm Hotel and have a glass of wine on the terrace before the sun fades. Nick and Grete join us as arranged and we go into the restaurant for a sumptuous meal. The food is excellent and plentiful, [Nick W chooses moules and counts 75 shells].
As we walk back the street lights are on, wrapped in patterned shades, and the terraces have lit their heaters.
We thought last time, and we would repeat this time, if anyone wanted to experience Holland in a day, Gouda is the place to do it.