As forecast, today is warm and sunny. Ali goes to pay the harbourmaster and use the washing machines then we set off at 11:00
Soon after we leave Meppel we are driving through lovely scenery made even lovlier with the sunshine. The canals and lakes glisten blue, trees are turning delicate spring green and the reed beds are pale ochre. Reeds have recently been cut and bundled and piled into stooks. Again we see huge herds of horses, 50 or more to a field.
And then we come across our first proper tulip fields, long strips of bright red and orange stretching away from the roadside and looking their best in the sunshine. A bit further along we see an even bigger patch of mauve with a layby nearby so we can stop to look properly, and with windows down we can smell their sweet scent too. We hope to see more next week, but we’re all happy to at least have seen some. As we are parked a streamlined cycle whizzes by and we liken it to a modified ostrich egg.
We arrive in Urk, a busy port that was an island until 1939, and park in the harbour’s camperstop. As the weather is good we decide to find lunch in town.
Part way up the main street we visit the Tourist Info. Another visitor asks the host about tulips and is told that they’re late this year and none are yet in bloom. We say we’ve just seen some and Ali shows her photos. Surprise and delight all round!
Across the road is a little bakery with a terrace where we get tostis [toasted sandwiches] for lunch.
Urk has some of the quaintest little houses we’ve seen in Holland, many decorated with nautical artefacts; ship’s wheels, netting, lanterns and the like. One even has an ancient radar mounted on the chimney. We pause by the memorial for lost sailors, plaques around the wall showing names, ages and boats lost by the year. Ages 8 to 71, another with 5 from the same family on one boat. Then we go out by the lighthouse, see the semisubmerged rock which locals say helps women become pregnant and wander through the old harbour.
There are vessels here of all ages, wooden hookers, bluff bowed fishing boats and traditional steam trawlers. Up on the slips grinding, welding and painting are in progress.
On the quay is a little stone structure like a well with a firehole door and a wooden derrick; The ‘taankettle’ heated oils from tropical trees like mimosa, cashew and acacia and the ‘taan’ was applied to nets, ropes and sails to preserve them until synthetic fabrics came into use.
We meander back through the town’s narrow street [a walk known as de ginkiestocht] and return to the newer harbour after a brief detour into the Boni supermarket. Now we are reminded that Urk has a quirk. In the bakery and in the supermarket, none of our money cards work so it has to be cash. We remember this happening here 2 years ago.
The Urk jinx strikes again when the fuse on Nick’s lift blows and needs fixing in a hurry. And when Ali tries to pump in a jerry can of water the pump siezes.
The havemeister arrives on his golf buggy to collect payment. Two years ago we put his misery down to the cold, but after today we wonder if he’s raised as much as a grin or happy word in between.
But the evening finishes happily with some nibbles and a nice sunset.