As we are getting dressed we hear a horn tooting, which turns out to be a baker's van delivering to the campers in the dunes. Ali goes over and buys a baguette, two spiced buns and two small pasty-like objects.

It is a bright sunny morning as we set off along the coast road towards Carboneras. The sea sparkles and the rocks glow warmly, and as we drive along there are lots of little impromptu wild campsites like the one we just left. The baker must do a good little trade each day.

We drive through numerous seaside resorts with colourful Arabian styled buildings. Restaurants offer set menus at €10 for three courses. In places the road climbs and plunges along the rocky cliffs, one minute at sea level then a few minutes later we are hundreds of feet above sea level. There are areas where of derelict mine workings with crumbling chimneys and engine houses.

We stop at Carboneras for lunch, including the little pasties which are filled with meat, potato and tomato. Lunch over we follow part of the 'Back Roads' books Secret Beaches tour. The route meanders through barren, rocky hills with occasional clumps of cactii and succulents. Here and there are remains of windmills, although there is one complete one at Pozo de los Frailes.

After a few bursts of 'The Good, The Bad and The Ugly' being whistled over the walkie-talkies, we head past miles of scruffy poly-tunnels to the main road for a 40 minute drive to our site al Almeria.

First impressions are not good, the spaces are tight and sloping, but actually once we are parked and levelled its quirkiness grows on us. We wander 50 yards to the beach, then up the hill to walk along the ocean drive. The breeze becomes cool as the sun goes down so we return to the site's bar for a beer. As we are enjoying our drinks the barman brings out complimentary tapas; grilled chicken legs in what appears to be a garlic and finely chopped boiled egg sauce.

We return to the van and Grete cooks seafood dishes in white wine sauce.