We have to wait to have our electric hook up unlocked before we can leave. At 12:00 we drive 3 miles into Peniscola, park easily under the old town wall and enter up the ramp through the arched gateway.

The narrow streets are paved with pebbles arranges in various patterns and all polished smooth by feet and tyres. The sea is visible over the wide stone ramparts on our right, while to our left white plastered buildings tower above us. The buildings have blue shutters and painted decorations which perfectly match the azure sky. Potted cacti and prickly pear stand on the balconies, many of which have decorative tiles underneath them. Although the sun is warm it is only 6 degrees and the wind is very cold as we climb through the narrow alleyways.

Back on the seafront we walk along the beach side. The wind has formed delicate ripples all across the sand and sculpted smooth troughs around the tree-trunks. We return to the van for lunch then set of towards Valencia.

It is a pleasant drive along the quiet motorway past a mixture of industrial areas, rocky outcrops and scrubby terraces until we reach the vibrant outskirts of Valencia. Once we are in the city itself traffic is manic. Roundabouts are merely targets with no lane discipline at all, so although there are four or five lanes around them, locals just take a straight line from entry to exit. Then halfway around there are traffic lights and 8 to 10 lines all indicating pole position for funnelling into two or three channels when the lights go green, and we're nowhere near the area used for the grand prix street circuit.

On the way out we pass a series of modern buildings, all like white steel sculptures. Once we leave Valencia we take the C-500 road across the L'Albufera delta. This wetland area and freshwater lake is cut off from the sea by a wooded sandbar [the dehesa] and produces a third of all Spain's rice and is also famous for its double ended fishing boats.

We reach Culliers and drive along its seafront and through the town before finding the restaurant which will be our passion stop for tonight. We are parked right on the seashore watching the waves break into clean surf. Plans to dine out are scuppered as the restaurant is closed tonight, so it's fish fingers and chips in the oven.

After the sun sets behind us there is the most amazing sight of the almost-full moon rising as a deep red ball, gradually going orange then yellow as it rises.

We fall asleep to the pounding sea crashing on the rocks a few yards away.