It's still misty but the sun is trying to break through. Across the car-park the washer women start their morning's work in the communal wash house. Occasionally one comes out with a basket of washing on her head and pegs it on the communal lines, a bird's nest of sticks and string looking like a naked big-top tent.

Ali and Grete find a small market at return with fish, pork slices, vegetables and fruit, including strawberries the size of snooker balls.

We set off at 10:50 and drive along the Duoro river, past a boat yard building traditional wooden boats and over the famous arched bridge built by Eiffel. Oporto's roads are all cobbled and uneven, meaning slow driving which allows us to see the sights.

As we leave the city the rain starts and stays heavy all morning. We find a motorhome centre that Grete found out about yesterday. They want tyres and we would buy batteries if the price was right. The Owner speaks good English but he doesn't do tyres or have the right batteries so we move on.

We agree to avoid the coast as it will be misty, but heading inland towards Brage is no better, and the journey seems like one long town with loads of cobbled roads along the way. We have a layby lunch-stop, drive through the very busy traffic in Brage then head out on to quieter roads. There is a mixture of mist and sunshine as we drive along the winding wooded N-210 through heather and mimosa. The buildings and scenery change drastically; steep hillside farms; houses with stone walls and steeper pitched rooves; and numerous yards full of mock Roman architectural features for every home and garden.

We reach the camper stop in Cerveira beside the river and railway. Not the prettiest scene, but it's peaceful and free.

Grete cooks the market fish which is a type of sardine or horse mackerel with couscous and Mediterranean vegetables. For afters we have the strawberries with cream.

Tonight is our last night in Portugal. Tomorrow Spain. We discuss various options for our route but don't reach any decisions. All will be clearer tomorrow.