All night we were buffeted and battered by a northerly force 6 so it wasn't the most restful night this trip, and this morning the wind is just as strong, with steely grey sea and sky for company.

We move off the beach at 10:55 and drive the coast road around Caba Roca and into the hills towards Sintra. The road is narrow and winding, with lots of trees and very green scenery. In Galmares we run alongside a narrow gauge railway, but the rusty tracks suggest it is only used in summer. Sintra is a large town we visited 15 years ago, most famous for its fairy-tale castle, but as we near the historic centre there are 'no caravanas' signs, meaning we cannot park, so we retrace our route over some of the cobbled streets back to the N-247.

The scenery along this stretch is reminiscent of home; grey, drystone walls with sheep pastures and green fields. It is also a popular area for salvaged ancient architecture with yards and fields full of columns and arches looking like recreations of the forum in Rome.

The sun comes out when we stop for lunch in Ericeria, a large, modern, whitewashed town which is mainly a surfing resort. Lunch is a variety of bread rolls with bits baked inside; olives, salami, cheese and bacon from a roadside pizza van which doesn't do pizzas until 19:00. Tasty and filling all for €1.50 each.

Bizarrely our route goes through a small village called Benfica [but not home of the large football club] and then through Gibraltar [this one much more attractive than the duty free colony to the south].

The land here is fertile, with vines and pear trees prominent, as well as loads of bamboo. There are also many blue and white windmills with squat towers and conical rooves, and we even see one with its sails spinning, although we don't know what they actually mill.

The town of Torres Vedras seems to be the centre of brick and tile production with tall chimneys, factories and yards full of bright red building materials. We stop in the supermarket and Ali tries to buy lamb chops. First she is offered a side of lamb, then a whole rack. So she calls the butcher to the pork section where they have pork chops. Finally the language barrier is overcome and we end up with a bag of lamb bits attached to bone; not our usual, neat slices but they'll make a meal. Sadly Intermarche don't sell mint or mint sauce.

Our last few miles climb through more attractive orchards to the ancient town of Obidos, where we find the camper stop below the old aqueduct, and it is empty.

While Nick W uses the water supply to clean both vans, especially after all the salty spray last night, Ali and Grete go to check accessibility in this fortified town, and return with a bag of mint bought in a bookshop. Strange or what? By the time the girls return four other vans have arrived.

Ali cooks the lamb with potatoes gratin, carrots and peas and the bookshop mint. And it's all delicious. Wine tonight is called Pias at €1.49 a bottle!