We are up early this morning to explore Obidos before moving on. It's a 500m walk across the carpark to the fortified gate and although it's only 13deg C the sun is bright and warm.

The streets inside the walls are every bit as picturesque as the guidebooks say; whitewashed shops and houses with blue accents matching the clear sky, and tiny windows. Obidos holds a chocolate festival each year, not on at the moment, but many shops are selling local produce, with tasting stands outside where you can try cherry and chocolate liqueurs, wines and ports. There are also some tacky souvenir shops and a few selling ceramic tiles and friezes. Narrow alleyways lead up steep stairs to other streets. All around are wrought lanterns and aged, weathered urns for geraniums, a few are even in flower. We sit in sunshine by the pillory, where criminals were tied, mocked or beaten [pilloried], overlooking the elegantly proportioned facade of the 1737 church. Inside its walls are completely tiled in blue and white ceramics.

There are very few people here today, one American coach party and a few French and Japanese.

Part of the ramparts is accessibly by wheelchair but it is very cold and windy up there.

On the way back we stop in a cafe for coffee, and while we are there we buy a selection of savoury and sweet pastries which we cut up to share, all of us having a taste of each.

We leave Obidos and drive the wooded country road to Alcobaca where we manage to park close to the monastery, a huge, imposing sandstone baroque building in the main square. The mosterio de Santa Maria de Alcobaca is very plain inside, just a forest of unadorned 12C arches, but the knave is 106m long.

Twenty minutes from Alcobaca we arrive at Nazare to find only a few slots left in the aire between mostly French motorhomes. We can't park together but at least we each have a space.

Ali and Grete walk down to the tourist office to get information so that we can explore tomorrow.

Grete cooks chicken and rice for dinner meaning dishes of food and glasses of gin need carrying across the car park from van to van.

Don't let the Frenchies know.