Before I tell you about our 5 days in the Catalan capital of Barcelona I have to mention the very squeaky streets (if I've mentioned them before just disregard this bit....I never reread my blogs!). It started in Granada. Our shoes were making so much noise on the cobblestones and so were everyone else's including the wild screeches as the cars turned corners. We couldn't figure it out and it was driving me crazy so I just had to ask at Tourist Info. Swallowing my pride I enquired only to be met with a blank star and then a look of complete understanding.  "It's Saman Santa" he said full of smiles. Huh? Turns out that the wax drips off the candles during the week long nightly (and sometimes daily) processions coats the paving stones that are already shiny from years of wear. It takes a few weeks to wear off which I suppose is a way of continuing the suffering of the season. Every time the rubber hits the road,so to speak, the squeaking fills the air. So there you have it..... now on to Barcelona.
Forty-five years ago we visited this city but, honestly, all we really remember is the American Express Office (which no longer exists)' the wide pedestrian streets, hundreds of lottery ticket sellers & finding our friend Jerry walking down the street (didn't know he would be there). This time we are older and wiser and determined to see the city.  
The apartment we booked turned out to be a home stay. Long story but it was just fine. Our first experience was jumping off the bus at Placa d'Espanya at 10pm and trying to flag down a taxi for the last few blocks to our mystery apartment. This huge plaza is one busy place but that first night we were too tired to appreciate it. If you wiggle your wrist just right a taxi will stop in front of you and not the other people patiently waiting. Lesson number one. The next lesson we learned early the next morning when we made our way to Catalunya in the very touristic area of La Rambla. There are thousands of tourists here and everything is really expensive & / or sold out!! Six hop on hop off buses in the same area and all of them were full (with a huge line up waiting). I actually thought this might be a good way to get out to see the outlying areas but at 30 euros each we said no way especially when it's really only a bus ride with history pre-recorded and no cute jokes like some we've been on in the past. Turned out much better in the end to get a metro pass making your way underground with the masses and walking for miles in between.
if you are planning a trip to Barcelona it would be a good idea to do some research on line. Decide what you want to see and book tickets before you arrive. We researched but didn't book any tickets. It was a surprise to walk all the way to the Sagrada Familia only to find there is a four hour wait (we went the next day). At the Parc Guell (one of the Gaudi sculpture wonders) there were no tickets to go in the museum, stand on the funky terrace or view his former residence. Good thing you could wander through the park itself and glimpse the sights. It is unfortunate that you come away with the feeling that, in order to see the sights properly, you should book one of the pricy tours outlined on glossy pamphlets that are pushed everywhere.  
That being said Barcelona is a diverse and fascinating city. Their love of everything Gaudi permeates the city, not just the souvenir stores. He was a revolutionary thinker, designer and artist not to mention an amazing architect. You find yourself marvelling at the fact that his futuristic designs date from 1854. The wealthy were so captivated by him that they asked him to design their city homes. This resulted in the bigger, funkier & better feeling you get as you stroll through the Eixample district.  
Leaving Gaudi aside (which isn't easy) you can get lost in the gothic district or wander along the ultra modern waterfront area where old & new mix easily. Take time to visit the areas where locals live. I love to check out local stores & sit in a tapas bar experiencing daily life. Part of this daily life is the unmistakable presence of the push for Catalonia's independence from Spain. The red and yellow flags are everywhere. In 2014 an unofficial poll showed 80% who voted wanted to break away. Even the language here is different, not that my Spanish is good at the best of times!
In 5 days we did the city proud but still left many areas unexplored. At this time in our journey we find pleasure in enjoying daily life while mixing in a few must see sights. One of the unavoidable sites that the locals get to enjoy (?) is the obvious presence of police & the Guardia Civil. I would estimate that there are twice the number here than there were in Madrid. One day Shane went to check where we were on a tourist map that happened to be behind a group of guards. He was unaware of the guard who went immediately for his side arm apparently surprised that Shane was so close to him. I have to say I was pretty taken aback by the look he gave him.
Just as a side note.....if you find yourself in the city try the halal wraps near Catalunya Plaza on the right hand side of La Rambla as you walk towards the sea. Didn't get the name but you can find the place by the number of people trying to cram in. Yumm��
The Sagrada Familia is not to be missed. It is Gaudi's as yet unfinished masterpiece. I didn't think I could get Shane in another church but even he was impressed. Embrasing his love of nature, Gaudi created a vast forest reaching to the sky while shouting out his love of creation and God. It is indeed a creation, more than a church it is an act of love that will not be completed before 2027.  
So now you are probably wondering about the underwear mentioned in my title. Throughout Barcelona you will see small posters saying "Tourism Kills". Being a tourist I was curious as to how I could hurt anyone....after all we bring in much needed tourist dollars. So we did a little research. The first line in an article we read online said "you can no longer buy underwear inVenice". Intrigued we read on. Apparently tourism has killed small business in Venice to the point where small purchases must be made on the mainland. The biggest concern is housing. Barcelona is cramming in tourists. It is so busy in April I can only imagine what the summer will be like. Everyone is cashing in on it and our 'home stay' was an example. The person we rented from had rented her apartment for the winter. The person has no place to go so refused to leave. Affordable housing is a huge problem here. Tourism is taking over forcing locals to move out of the city they call home. We ended up staying in the landlady' sown apartment which was odd but interesting. Don't know if there will come a time when you can't buy underwear in Barcelona but I can certainly sympathize with them. As an independent tourist I felt like I didn't have the same rights that the pre-paid mass tourism tourists did.
Is this our new world?
Now we're off to pick up a car & enjoy the north of Spain for a few weeks before heading home.