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The drive along the North west coast of Spain, known as the Costa del Morte (or coast of death because of all the ship wrecks here) was a photographer's fantasy! The road alternately takes you through sleepy fishing villages, past white sandy beaches and around impossibly craggy rock outcrops. Not a busy tourist area we were surprised to find many restaurants still shut for the season...at least that's what we hoped was the case as many businesses are closed down completely (along with many unfinished housing / commercial buildings left to grow weeds).
Muros was a delightful stop for lunch. Great seafood, good atmosphere, sun and colourful fishing boats bobbing in the bay.
Our destination for the next three nights was Fistierra. We booked this before we knew it was "km 0" of the Camino Trail. More soggy pilgrims, some still walking while others arrive by bus after ending their journey in Santiago de Campostello. The weather was alternately miserable & sunny which was great for me as I love to watch storms on the sea!! We had it all including a hail storm which Imwas sure would dent our little Fiat or at least damage it's rag top. The car was fine and we just made it back before the hail let loose. Huge waves, wild colours of sun and black storm clouds. I loved it all!
By the end of the three days we had explored pretty much every village, sandy beach & craggy outcrop the area had to offer. Oh, and we had some great sea food and rescued soggy pilgrims as well. This was my kind of heaven. Don't know if we earned any indulgences with the soggy pilgrim rescues but we had a lot of fun!
Having exhausted sightseeing options and hiking for any length of time was out if the question because of the weather we pushed on farther east to Porto de Espasante. How Shane found this beautiful village I don't know but it was the perfect size and away from the crowds (?). In fact it was so out of the way that no one was at the hotel when we arrived. It was locked. Looking tired and confused must have worked as a cute little square lady in an apron came over talking a blue streak. Eventually we figured out we had to phone. Sure enough about 20 minutes later a woman showed up with a key. We were here for another three nights......alone with our key for company! Thought we might meet other travellers in hotels but nope....not in the north of Spain in April! Still it was very comfortable & the owners were delightful (we saw her each morning when she made us breakfast and him when we had internet problems which is a story of it's own!!!...... Before it was fixed the only place to go on line was the bar area. So we sat in the dark, surrounded by bottles of booze while neighbours walked by wondering if the bar was now open! Pretty creepy sitting in an empty hotel bar with no other place to go!!). Anyway...this town was even better than the last one. Great hiking (better weather) and lots to see in the area. By the time our three days was up we had explored the most northern point of Spain and the (arguably) highest ocean side cliff in Europe. We had dodged cows, goats & sheep, eaten well & managed to continue to b******ized the Spanish language with a smile on our faces (and a laugh on everyone else's). This is an area where the local dialect is called Bable....so I thought we would fit right in!
Again we had big waves and beautiful rugged coastlines, the difference was the weather. It's amazing how good it feels to have sun on your face.
The three days went fast. We were physically gearing up for the next stop. Leaving the coast for a few days in the mountains. Rain gear and runners ready....we are going hiking.
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nikiganie Amazing. Love you!