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Had the best night sleep at the Kulgera Campgrounds, still woke latish and lazily packed up, finally starting the Finke Road at 10am. Marty got told that the road conditions were alright, so with reassurance in our heads we headed off.
Oh how l've missed the red colored dirt of Australia. The Finke Road is full of it and it looks stunning!! We decided to do this road for something new and because we had been up the Stuart highway before and knew it wouldn't be that exciting. Also, thought we'd stop off at Lambert's Center of Australia and Chambers Pillar, which also let's us drive on the Old Ghan Track. As we travelled along, it had felt like ages since we'd been on a dirt road, funny though, it had only been yesterday that we finished the Oodnadatta track!!! Anyway, we were cruising along at an average of 80km/hr and the road was good. The landscapes were do much different from the Oodnadatta track with more vibrant color from the purple and yellow wild flowers and the green native shrubs. We made good timing and stopped off for a driver change half way down, yes that means l am in the drivers set now. We make it to the turn off to the Lambert's Center and within a second l start s***ting myself. We hit red sand straight away and the entrance is a little narrow, I'm still getting used to the caravan width being more than the Nissan, and l just clear it. I start slowing and have to kick it back to 1st gear to keep moving thru the sand. Lucky for me l made it thru and l didn't scrap the van!!! I keep moving thru the track with its sand and corrugations and washouts, quite well too l reckon. There are two tracks to decide which one to do, and l choose the left. Well l should have gone right cause it was so narrow and l was hitting the shrubs and trees on both mirrors. Marty was wearing a few twigs and half way down forwardly told me to get on the other track!!! Lol... This track was 13km long and it took me 45 mins to do!! That should tell you have rough it was in places with the van, however Marty will tell you it was my driving! Finally we arrived to find a tall steel monument with a plaque describing the story behind the Lambert's Center of Australia. Xxxxxx. We checked out the visitors book to find the "Vaughan's" and Mick's name back on the 31st August 2011, about a week before they met us!!! Was pretty cool and can't wait to tell them (no reception out here)! I signed us in the book, wishing Marty a happy birthday for tomorrow in it. It was an awesome area, surrounded with native bushes and trees, wild flowers and even a Coles shipping trolley!! We had some lunch, for a change we had salada's cause we had no bread.... Gave the girls a run around and then headed off again, this time Marty was back behind the wheel. Marty took the other road on the way back trying to be a smart ass and it nearly backfired with is hitting a real sandy bit and all you could feel was the car slowing whilst he was increasing the revs, until we came to a stop. He wouldn't admit it but he did crap himself a little. He got out, locked the front wheels in and put it in 4WD and thankfully we started moving. We eventually got out snd back onto the Finke Road with only 20kms to go before arriving in Finke. As we drove in we saw the 'no prescription' signs banning all alcohol. Don't know why thru don't just call it a 'dry' town, everyone knows that what it means. Anyway, we drove in and it felt like a ghost town. No one in sight, cars resting on there runs with no tyres and stray dogs walking around. then we saw three small aboriginal girls walking barefoot out of the shops, at least we knew someone lived here!! They had the most wide beaming beautiful smiles and we could hear them talking in their native language as we drove past, l watched our girls reactions to them, it was only fascination.
We took the road out of Finke and headed out on the Old Ghan Railroad Track. It was also a road that ran along side the track for the Finke to Alice Race. It's a pretty big race in these parts apparently and we hope to see it whilst being in the area. Within five minutes if starting the track we know that it's a bit rougher than the Finke road. It was more corrugated to start with and as we found out along the say there were big washouts at the side of the road that we were lucky to avoid dropping down. Some were noticeable with red flags in place to warn us, but some were not. Marty also pointed out that there were heaps of old railway sleeper pins lying over the road if l kept an eye out. He was right! They were just lying in the dirt every now and again on the track. We stopped to have a closer look at one and contemplated taking one, but decided not as we didn't want a bad luck curse to follow us. We'd heard too many stories along our travels in particular spots were people took souvenirs abs were then cursed with bad luck for no other reason. We hadn't come across a story about old Ghan sleeper pins but we weren't gonna try it out either!!! Anyway, we kept moving with plans to stop at a free campsite near some ruins. The landscapes were amazing. Along with the purple and yellow wildflowers aligning the red sand track, in the horizon there were huge rock hills formed, then nothing for as far as the eye could see. For the first time on this trip l had a fleeting bit of worry of something went wrong as we hadn't seen a car since early this morning when we left and there wasn't any sign of like around, animal or human.... I soon calculated that we had enough water and food for up to a week so l became less anxious. Was funny to feel so small in this land of ours, but also nice. Back to the blog!! At about 3pm we arrived at our projected camp spot at the 'Engoordina' ruins which were abandoned buildings were people who worked in the old Ghan track would stay along the way. Didn't look too inviting or sheltered from the sub so we thought we would push on to Chambers Pillar which was only about another 100km up the road. Within 5 mins of continuing the drive the road got worse with rougher corrugations and more frequent washouts. What l thought might only take us another hour and a half might prove longer l think!! Boo and Meg were being so great today, playing with their dolls in the back seat and coloring in their books. At least the country side wasn't boring to look at, the rocky hills were getting bigger, and closer. There were heaps of other things to see too like old bonnets of cars used for road signs and burnt out rolled over cars....
At 5pm we arrived at Titjikala, the town before the entrance to the Chambers Pillar Historical Reserve. We were all getting a bit sick of the car by now but at least we knew the end was near and Marty and l were a little excited to finally be here. See our last trip this way we ran out of time and didn't get to the pillar, so even though it's ten years later, at least we made it!!! Every corner we turned we hoped we would see it in sight, but again, disappointed that it wasn't. Then finally, after climbing and rolling down the rocky sand dunes we finally got a glimpse of the 50m tall Chambers Pillar. It looked majestic and spectacular standing on the horizon with rocky hills nearby. We drove the winding track up to the camping reserve, totally in awe of this huge rock formation in front of us. We were also not the only ones with the great idea to camp here, unfortunately another couple did too. We were hoping to be here all by ourselves, but oh well...
We efficiently unpacked, now getting it so down pat it's not funny.... Then it was time for a beer and wine while the girls made Marty his b'day cards for tomorrow. I heated up the apricot chicken I'd cooked last night in preparation for the next few days, then it was time to take a stroll. It was an easy 450m walk to the pillar, feeling so small looking up at it. The colors were amazing, dark sunburnt reds, brown and white rock. We climbed the stairs to the lookout platform and had the most amazing views. The sun was setting making everything turn deeper in color, spectacular. We saw the carvings the explorers, one being J. Ross, who named the pillar after a longtime supporter and financial backer of his explorations. Chambers Pillar was once used as a navigational point of reference for outback travellers on their way from north central to south. Can see why, it's bloody huge. We sat up on the lookout for a whole, taking in the glorious outback sunset which transformed the sky a stunning orange whilst on the opposing side the sky was a mix of colors, blue, purple, yellows and oranges. All the rocks had changed in color, becoming a deep orange while the white stood out more. The moon and stars quickly followed and we made our way back to the caravan. Had to keep an eye on the path though because apparently the scorpions come out at night!!! Bloody outback and it's creepy crawlies!!!
It had been a fabulous day, even though we spent most of it in the car. Having said that we are now another day ahead of schedule, meaning tomorrow we will arrive in Alice Springs. Then the fun begins.....trying to find work!!!! It's also going to be a fabulous day again tomorrow as its Marty's b'day! Now who can say that they woke up on their b'day being able to see the sunrise over the Chambers Pillar?? Not too many people, that's for sure......
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