Day 15, 13 February: Rundu to BaganiThe sky and the trees get bigger further along the trans-caprivi, which follows the Okavango toward the Caprivi panhandle. This geo-political relic stands as a continuing reminder of the ridiculous and damaging impact of the zany colonial ideals (Vic Falls stumped the German ideal of a Coast to Coast route across Africa). Now, these boundaries remain as if they are real, separating the Lozi people in Caprivi from their Barotse kin in Zambia. Anyway, these boundaries are happily disregarded by anyone with a makoro. Barotse social and judicial systems also take precedence. Elephants crossing over from Zambia/Angola also ignore the borders, following the same ancient pathways across the panhandle, to the Chobe, Linyanti and Okavango.A short trip to the Katima half-way mark of Bagani, where the road crosses the river, we headed past Popa Falls and on to Ngepi Lodge, tucked away behind a channel in the Okavango, and directly on this grand and fast-flowing river. Ngepi uniquely combines the most stunning scenery with truly committed and sound environmental management and a quirky approach. Of many lodges and campsites that we have seen, Ngepi rates right at the top. The photos can better illustrate.We camped at Ngepi, one of few places where one can pitch tent in the shade, right on clean sandy riverbank. Hippo could be heard close by, and this camp most reminded me of a year spent on the banks of the Zambezi.Swimming in the cage-pool in the river is great, avoiding the threat of crocs. The boys did some schoolwork at the riverside.The rivers are rising early this year, and we had to cross some water to leave Ngepi. I expect the Zambezi also to be rising.