Day 32-33, 2-3 March - Chitimba A reasonably early start and short drive via Mzuzu to a lakeside beach at Chitimba, at the Chitimba Beach Camp. One of the most scenic drives in Malawi approaches the lakeshore with its long beaches, from the highlands which include the settlement of Livingstonia. The camp is pleasant, a regular stop for overland trucks. The lake appears like the sea here. Makoros line the shore, fishing nets 'dry' in the 'sun'. People wash and ...

Dive Log: Sunday, 1 March - Diving Lake Malawi Unbelievable - clear water, mostly clear sky, sunny - a perfect day for diving! Rains had been soft, so no ugly brown runoff either. More unbelievable is that we had actually booked to dive (a real act of faith in the 'rainy' season). We met Jonnie at Aqua Africa, the dive master and instructor, who had more good news. We could do the Lake Dive as part of our adventure diving ticket, since the lake is at 'altitude...

Day 28, 26 February: Chipata to Nkhata Bay We had not lost any fuel, so left quite early to get to Nkhata Bay on Lake Malawi. Another place that Michelle & I had visited in earlier backpacking days, so were keen to stop in again. No more than 100 km out of Lilongwe, I noticed the fuel guage dipping rapidly. Suspecting the worst (the leak), we stopped quickly and it was confirmed. A short round of curses and we carried on, trying to get fuel stations out of...

Day 27, 25 February: Chipata to Lilongwe Up early, we had toast and eggs and hit the road after refueling and trying to spend remaining kwacha at Shoprite. The leak seemed miraculously gone, but I knew it was just waiting for a bad time to make itself known again. We arrived at the Malawi border, and carried on to Lilongwe after uncomplicated, friendly, and now familiar border procedure. The rainy season is most aptly named, so I probably don't need to go on ...