A change of pace today after Rome's jam-packed itinerary left us (and our feet) in need of some downtime. I'm not sure how to spice up our day of planning and laundry, but perhaps a word about lunch will do. We happened upon a trattoria with a hand-written menu offering a three-course lunch including wine and service for €11. After our experience in Rome where they charge you €6 for looking at a sandwich, we were more than prepared to be spoiled with a hearty meal. Home cooking, Sicilian style, unbelievable. Afterwards, we waddled down to see Santa Maria del Fiore cathedral, pictured here, which looks sort of like a big Christmas ornament dropped in the centre of town.