We arrived into Aurangabad two hours late -long delayed train Welcome To India. Arrived in the dark again, 2am, so got the most pointless rickshaw ride ever, about 200 years down the road. Woke up the guesthouse owners and crashed out until late the next day.

After a long sleep we went to a restaurant - Lonely Planet recommended of course. Badgered the entire way by rickshaw drivers. They don't seem to understand that we want to walk and often lie about the distances just so we'll be put off and get in. Little do they know we lived in Sheffield the hilliest place known to man and we can handle the leisurely stroll. Our meal was really nice, we were slightly wary that we were the only ones there for the duration but no Delhi Belly, so it can't have been too bad. Popped to a net cafe to load some photos and then back to the hotel for a relaxed evening on the rooftop restaurant with our books and a few hands of Uno. And the weirdest lime soda in the world. I've become a bit obsessed with the fresh lime soda here which you can have sweet or salted (?) the waiter couldn't remember which I wanted and so he but both sugar and salt in. Not a combination I would recommend.

Next day was spent at Ellora caves, which is the most spectacular thing we've seen so far. It's a group of 34caves carved into the solid rock face, each a separate temple, monastery or shrine. Incorporating Buddhist temples, Jainist temples and Hindu temples all side by side. The main Kailasa temple is the most impressive and was carved from the top if you can get your head around that. We spent the whole day here and the weather was perfect. We even got ourselves an accidental guide who showed us a 'shortcut' to the Jain section which just happened to pass a little swimming pool which he was very insistent I should go skinny dipping in, for some reason he didn't seem too bothered about Sean but did want pictures of us kissing. We quickly escaped him.

The journey both to and from the caves was interesting. After a much hassled and slightly stalked by rickshaw drivers walk to the bus station we took one look at the 'buses' and were quickly persuaded into a share jeep which acts as a public bus on a much smaller and private scale. We were the first in and thought we were living the high life in a private jeep but it soon filled up. To the point of overflowing. So, imagine a jeep. And imagine it is full. How many people are you thinking about? Is it 19? Because the driver wasn't satisfied until we were completely rammed in and then was still cruising for fares. 3 grown men on the front passenger seat, so 4 people including the driver,4 adults in the middle and a child, and the rest in the back. We were on the middle seat which was probably the most comfortable place to be, but only just.

We had dinner in our favourite spot in the rooftop restaurant, starting to feel a bit like the characters in Friends with the attachment to our sofa. Sean was again successful at our Uno championship putting me to shame. At some point either then or at night we were both bitten to shreds by the sodding mozzies.

Up bright and early to continue our travels and Laura had her usual argument with the receptionist about the room charges. Justified this time because they were trying to charge us for an extra night. She was having none of it. Got to the station and were just embarking on cattle class train which we've done before. Not comfortable but how bad could it be...