We're less than 30km this side of Italy and already I've had a pizza, several glasses of prosecco, said 'caio' and seen half a dozen pairs of shoes I would happily whip my credit card out for. We're in Vipiteno, a very cute, albeit cold, Italian village at the foot of the Austrian alps and Italian Dolomites. It doesn't feel entirely Italian yet, there's still German menus and Tirolean food everywhere but there's now a large number of wedge sneakers, deep tans and heavy makeup (on the women) matching snakeskin shoes and belts, tight white shirts and hair gel (on the men) and wild gesturing (everyone).