Behold Lake Garda! Rounding the corner onto Quartiere Europa the lake, it's sheer cliffs on one side and overlooking hundreds of windsurfers off Riva del Garda, was like a smack in the face. After 40km of beautiful riding through Italian countryside from Trento (where the bike route goes through people's backyards and fights for space among vineyards and apple trees) the sudden lake view was a shock. The high vantage point is spectacular, hand to my mouth I was speechless. No photo I've taken will justify the image. But I gave it a red hot go anyway. It's the end of the cycle route (for now) and for the first time since crossing the border we are at the mercy of Italian drivers, a narrow road and heavy holiday traffic. The road runs through several tunnels and hugs the shoreline with the occasional shoulder to ride on but little else. The lake laps at the brick walls to your right while traffic, including regular tour buses pass on your left. I like the safety of a bike path, the Italians have outdone themselves with an exceptional route that travels all the way to Venice, however I'm also a bit partial to the blood-pumping heart-pounding exhilaration of riding on foreign roads. I took comfort in seeing several day trippers riding total s***boxes with no helmets, completely oblivious to traffic. Death wish. The ride around the lake is terrific fun, passing through dozens of small towns before we hit our hotel a couple of hours later. Two minutes after we check in mountains disappear under heavy cloud and the heavens open. Can't ask for much more than that.