We have returned from the Amazon and had the most amazing time there. Prior to that we had a couple more days in Cuzco where we visited an Inka museum, did some shopping for gifts and souvenirs (you can buy anything you can possibly think of with llamas on here). We also went to a chilled out movie lounge and watched the Sex and the City movie. I´d already seen it but loved it the second time, and Dan enjoyed it too. By the way we know it´s a bit lame that we´re on the other side of the world and watching films but our schedule has meant we´ve got so long in Cuzco that we´ve already done all the touristy things.

On Friday we flew to the Amazon for four magical days. The flight from Cuzco to Puerto Maldonado (in the Amazon) was only 35 minutes long but the contrast in the two places is as if they´re thousands of miles apart. The airport at Puerto Maldonado is just a tin shed, and a bloke just pushes the stairs up to the plane for you to get off. We were surprised that a donkey wasn´t bought out to collect bags off the plane.

We were greeted by our tour company and our journey into the jungle began. First of all we were driven to the "port" (a plank of wood over the muddy river bank to our simple wooden boat), then we had a 30 minute boat ride, then we walked into the jungle for a couple of miles, and then we had another 30 minute boat ride. When we finally arrived at Sandoval Lake Lodge we found a beautiful and disguised lodge made entirely out of driftwood and complete with comfy hammocks that looked out over the jungle and the lake. Idyllic is not the word. I think it is the best place I´ve ever been in the whole world. It was incredible.

That night our guide (the fabulous Javier H) look us on a night walk where we saw all sorts of spiders (including tarantulas and chicken spiders), scorpions, crickets, and a frog. We also heard the most amazing noises. That´s something that can never be captured in photos. The rain forest is an extremely noisy place, constantly reminding you that it is a living, breathing thing. At some instances all the bugs, birds and monkeys were so noisy that if you were reading you could no longer concentrate.

The next morning we rose from our mosquito net-covered beds at 5am, and were out on a boat on the lake by 5.30am. That morning we saw loads of blue and yellow macaws (which are so much more beautiful in the wild than they are in zoos - something about the freedom). We also saw all kinds of king fishers, toucans, bats sleeping on trees, cardinals with amazing red heads, loads of herons including tiger herons, cayman (like crocodiles), beautiful birds called hoaxin and loads more birds. The best thing we saw though was a group of monkeys. We watched a group of about seven capuchin monkeys on the hunt for breakfast. We watched them for about 45 minutes and they really didn´t seem at all bothered about us as they munched on fruit an bounced from tree to tree.

It was then back to the lodge for breakfast and then we went out for a walk in the jungle. We saw loads more creepy crawlies and parrots, and the most incredible flora and fauna. Javier also gave us a tour of the lodge´s medicinal garden and explained all the amazing properties of the plants. The things they grew could fix bones, prevent cancer, cure numerous tropical diseases and of course be eaten.

After lunch and a chill in the hammock we went out on the lake again for sunset (the best times to see wildlife is early in the morning and at the end of the day). This time we saw more caymans, and loads more parrots and other birds, but we also saw a heard of about 100 squirrel monkeys. We watched them for ages as they were climbing through the trees on the edge of the lake all at once. They were on their way from their feeding ground to their roosting area and it was incredible to watch one monkey after another swing from tree to tree. Again they were totally indifferent to our presence. I was reminded of my feeling when watching sea lions in NZ, that it is amazing that these animals aren´t scared of humans, when so many animals are afraid of us because they know us as killers. It´s great that these animals don´t see us in that way.

After a cocktail and dinner (a nightly occurrence) it was early to bed again, as the next morning we had to be up at 4.30am. We were on the boat by 5am and after a 30 min boat ride had reached the other side of the lake, where we went for a walk. That morning we saw literally hundreds of parrots up close, as they were gathering in an area of dead palms, where they collect to eat the bark and "socialise". It´s where many of them meet their mates so is kind of like a bar! We saw parrots of all colours and shapes and sizes, and I was struck by the size of their flocks. It has never seemed sadder to me that zoos tend to only have one of each kind. That is so far from their natural behaviour. We also saw the most beautiful big black, red and yellow caterpillar, a cuckoo, red squirrels and some beautiful tamarin monekys. Javier said we were really lucky to see them up close as they are so rare. One was eating a lizard which even he´d never seen before and he´s been working there eight years!

We were back on our boat eating breakfast at 7.30am, moving further round the lake to go for another walk where we saw more amazingly massive trees and beautiful frogs. On our way back to the lodge we saw howler monkeys which are bright red. That morning we heard a noise like a passing train or an approaching storm, which Javier had explained was just one howler monkey. It was the most incredible and eerie sound and it´s hard to believe it was made by just one monkey. We had done all of that by 9am!

We had until 4.30pm to ourselves so we had a nap, chatted to the rest of our group (all of whom were really lovely), swung in the hammocks, did yoga and wandered around the forest. We were back on the lake again at 4.30pm and saw more caymans and birds, and we saw the squirrel monkeys heading home again, as well as the howler monkeys tucking in for the night. Once back at the lodge we went for a night walk and saw tarantulas, scorpions and geckos up really close, it was gross but incredible.

Today we made the long journey back to Puerto Maldonado airport, and I talked weddings practically the whole way with a lovely French girl who was on her honey moon with her equally lovely English husband. It was very hot today so we were relieved when we finally got on our lovely air-condition plane and in our shower back here at Cuzco.

I could have stayed at the lodge for weeks and don´t think I´ve ever been quite so affected by a place as I was there. I adored it and can´t recommend it enough. If anyone reading this has the chance to go to that lodge or anywhere else in the Amazon DO IT! I now feel quite upset that I´m no longer there, but knowing we start the Inka Trail in just two days is helping.

Hope you´re all well. Big hugs,

Laura xxx