Sua s'dei! The madness of this place continues! After a long hot bus journey that took three hours longer than it should we arrived at Siem Reap bus station. We have been away for a while now so are used to dealing with persistant hawkers, Tuk Tuk drivers and beggars...or so we thought! As we pulled into the station a crowd of drivers began banging on the windows (what do you call a crowd of TT drivers? Maybe a gaggle...or a haggle!!) feeling a little bit nervous we stepped off the rusty old coach only to be closely surrounded by a dollar hungry, sweaty, smelly, pushing and pinching mass of blokes all shouting the names of various guest houses at the top of their voices. The way that Cambodians will pinch your arm (or bum) in order to get your attention intimidated us a little! In the end we went with the quietest member of the haggle, settled in the back with a big sigh and enjoyed a fag to calm our nerves! Our first Gh was hidden at the end of a mud track. It was basic but looked clean so seemed value for money. Shame about the cloud of mozzies chilling out in the bathroom though! Given my extreme blistering reaction to being bitten I decided against providing a mozzie buffet and we cheekily checked out fifteen mins after checking in! Siem Reap is a bit of a building site at the moment, lots of posh hotels are being thrown up to meet the demands of the rich tourists who fly in to visit Ankor Wat. The food and drink here is expensive so we sit nursing our tepid beers glaring at the tour groups of wealthy Korean tourists who wander 'round in golf shorts hiding from the sun under giant umbrellas! We were hopefull that a change of scenery would change our minds about Cambodia, but we are not keen on aspects of the places we have seen so far. It's difficult to explain, but some people here have an unusual attitude. Children are sent out to beg by their parents and will often carry a baby with them. They always ask for a dollar (and will follow you along the street asking for more if you give them anything less) and hold the baby out to you if you look like saying no. A pass to visit the Temples costs $40 for three days, so someone is making a s*** load of cash, yet kids are pimped out to beg each night. We have found this really difficult, as we cant afford to give a $ to everyone who asks :( On a lighter note! the Temples of Ankor are stunning: photo op heaven! We really enjoyed our first day exploring Ankor Wat with our gob's hanging open :O It's the worlds largest religious building and was built in the 11C when we were stll sloshing our bedpans out of our bedroom windows and dying of the pox! Im nowhere near articulate enough to describe it to you, so you will have to wait for Mac to upload the photo's (it's his job as im writing all the journal entries....could you tell!) Ankor is the most famous, but we were surprised by the number of Temples on the site. The site itself is huge so we hired a lovely TT driver to take us around. Our other faves were the Bayon and Pra Thom. The Bayon is a small crumbling Temple that looks like a pile of stones from a distance, but as you get closer you can make out the 216 faces carved onto the pillars. They look beautiful at sunset, and we even managed to get a few pictures without burberry clad Koreans in the frame! Pra Thom is a tumble down Temple, quietly overgrown with the roots of huge trees snaking over, through and under its walls. The effect is amazing, the trees have destroyed the Temple but are really the only thing holding it together now. On our second day we dragged ourselves out of bed at five to watch the sunrise. It was not as crowded as we imagined and the atmosphere was lovely. Everyone seemed to have that hushed calm you get when looking at something so beautiful, we sat happily on the causeway in the purple half light waiting for the sun to come up behind Ankor Wat...for me it was the best experience of our trip :) We had a splash out meal tonight (our last in Cambodia) and it's back to Thailand tomorrow...yey!