What a culture shock! The bus journey was not so bad really: we are used to sweaty bums on plastic seats and crappy aircon by now! This bus had the added comedy bonus of a 'window policeman' a skinny guy who would stalk the aisle every now and then checking for sneakily opened windows. If he caught you out....oooh! he would quickly slide them shut and stare at you madly while pointing to the crappy aircon unit wheezing warm farty smelling air from above your head! Every time the bus stopped we were surrounded by street hawkers and beggars of all descriptions. I find this really hard to deal with at the best of times, but here they are so much more in your face (and we didnt think that was possible after Vietnam) and will crowd and touch you. They also dont take no for an answer, so i will need to toughen up as am not able to give money to everyone :( Our guesthouse is far from flash, but Mac was so hot he insisted on having a soak in the dodgy looking bath. He totally ignored my horrified squeaking about manky backpackers feet...he will probably get boils on his bot for his trouble! Decided pretty quickly that we are not staying long, will visit SL21 and the Killing fields tomorrow then head up to Siem Reap asap. ....................................................................................