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Welcome to Uzbekistan! Let's start with a brief history of this fascinating country.....
Uzbekistan is famous for all those exotic images you see in ancient Persian documentaries. Beautifully ornate tiled cupolas stand above open-air bazaars with exotic fabrics, fruits, and spices. Uzbekistan is bounded by Kazakhstan in the north and northwest, Kyrgyzstan and Tajikistan in the east and southeast, Turkmenistan in the southwest, and Afghanistan in the south. The Uzbekistan land was once part of the ancient Persian Empire and was later conquered by Alexander the Great in the 4th century B.C. During the 8th century, the nomadic Turkic tribes living there were converted to Islam by invading Arab forces who dominated the area. The Mongols under Ghengis Khan took over the region in the 13th century, and it later became part of Tamerlane the Great's empire and that of his successors until the 16th century. The Uzbeks invaded the territory in the early 16th century and merged with the other inhabitants in the area. Their empire broke up into separate Uzbek principalities, the khanates of Khiva, Bukhara, and Kokand. These city-states resisted Russian expansion into the area but were conquered by Russian forces in the mid-19th century. The territory was made into the Uzbek Republic in 1924 and became the independent Uzbekistan Soviet Socialist Republic in 1925. Under Soviet rule, Uzbekistan concentrated on growing cotton with the help of irrigation, mechanization, chemical fertilizers, and pesticides, causing serious environmental damage. In June 1990, Uzbekistan was the first Central Asian republic to declare that its own laws had sovereignty over those of the central Soviet government and independence was gained in 1991. Uzbekistan is a multi-ethnic society: more than 100 ethnic groups live on its territory. The native inhabitants are Uzbeks, which consist of about 80% population.
Today we started to explore Bukhara. Last night we walked through part of the city and got a glimpse of the sights but it is in daylight that you can truly appreciate the beautiful architecture. Bukhara is an open-air museum of mosques, madrasahs, and minarets and the nation's fifth-largest city with a population of approximately 250, 000.
The history of Bukhara stretches back millennia. Bukhara is one of the most ancient cities of Uzbekistan, situated on a sacred hill, the place where sacrifices were made by fire-worshippers in springtime. Bukhara city is supposed to be founded in the 13th century B.C. during the reign of Siyavushids who came to power 980 years before Alexander the Great. The name Bukhara originates from the word "vihara" which means "monastery" in Sanskrit. Located on the Silk Road, the city has long served as a centre of trade, scholarship, culture, and religion. In its 2500-year history, it has constantly changed hands from one ruler to another.
The complex Poi-Kalon is considered the heart of Bukhara situated on the way to the trade crossing of "four bazaars" and Poi-Kalon means "the pedestal of the Great". The complex consists of 4 monuments: Kalon Mosque and Miri-Arab Madrasah - facing each other with main fronts; between them is the Kalon minaret; to the south of Miri-Arab, there is a small Amir-Allimkhan Madrasah. Kalon Minaret is a great vertical pillar, rising above the city with a height of 46 meters, dating to 283 BC. You cannot miss seeing this day or night. Kalon Mosque dates from the 5th century and was restored in the 16th century. The two big blue domes of the Miri-Arab madrasah tower above the surrounding buildings in the center of Bukhara. Construction of the Miri-Arab madrasah dates back to the 16th century. This madrasah is considered one of the most interesting monuments of Bukhara and is still an acting institution, where future imams and religious mentors receive their education. The décor of the Miri-Arab madrassah with different stone mosaics and exquisite work with geometric, vegetative, and calligraphic writings and patterns has to be seen to be believed.
Toki Zargaron is the largest trading dome of Bukhara. The Toki-Zargaron dome is stretched upwards and strengthened with ribs which makes it different from the others. The name Zargaron is connected with the word "zargar" which can be translated as "goldsmith". Once there located 36 jeweler's workshops selling various pieces of jewelry. There are not so many here now but still enough to tempt you.
Ark Citadel is the symbol of state power and was the residence of Bukhara Khans. This spectacular fortress is the oldest structure in Bukhara, dating all the way back to the 5th century, and was a 'city within a city'. The original structure, covering a roughly rectangular site of some 3ha, included a palace, Zoroastrian fire temple, administrative areas, and guardrooms; the main functions of the town all took place within these city walls so that they could more easily be defended in the case of attack. The present entrance built in 1742 consists of two towering bastions linked by a balcony of six porticoed windows. Around 3,000 people lived within its walls and the complex included houses, courtyards, emir lodging, a throne room, a police department, stables, stores of clothes, carpets, utensils, treasures, an armoury, a jail, jewelers, and other workshops, a mint place, mosques, bazaars and other buildings. You can see the former coronation hall where the last coronation took place in 1911. There are a couple of small museums where you can see artifacts that have been recovered from the site and give you some insight into life in olden times.
Within the Ark Citadel is the Djome Mosque dating back to the 17th century. Also known as the Friday Mosque we were fascinated to see the geometrical and floral ornamentation.
The Mausoleum of Ismail Samani was built at the close of the ninth century. It is composed of a semi-spherical dome resting on a cube and is characterized by kiln-dried bricks, forming horizontal, vertical, and diagonal patterns on the walls.
The Bolo Hauz Mosque, built in 1712, with its external carved wooden pillars, is gorgeous. The wooden ceiling of the aivan (traditional verandah), is abundantly decorated with fretwork and ornamented with floral and geometrical ornamental patterns.
Chasmai Ayub Mausoleum translates as Saint Job's Source. A legend has it that the biblical prophet Job, having visited this land, decided to help the people who suffered from water shortage in the desert. He struck the ground with his stick, making a source of crystal clear water spring at that place. The people believe that the water from the source possessed healing power. The mausoleum is erected over the source and is shaped in a form of an oblong prism. The building is crowned with domes, different in form. Over the main building, there is a special double dome with a conical "cap".
The Nadir Divan-Begi Madrasah is a part of the architectural complex located around Lyabi-Hauz in Bukhara and is where we went for dinner and a cultural and folklore show to get acquainted with the dance traditions of Uzbekistan. It was a bit cheesy but I did enjoy seeing the different costumes. As we left we passed the statue of Khoja Nasreddin who was a legendary folk hero. There is a belief that if you put a child on his donkey, his life will be filled with joy and a lot of positive emotions. Needless to say, there was a lineup of children!!
On our walk back to the hotel Mickey took us via the Jewish Quarter and we visited one of the traditional houses and also saw the Magoki Attori Mosque which dates from the 12th century.
What a day this has been. Full of mosques, minarets and mausoleums. Not sure how many steps we have walked today but I have found Bukhara a fascinating place. Cannot wait to see what tomorrow brings.
- comments
Ray Harvey Great read Kate and enjoying your updates. I assume the headscarf is mandatory for you and Vicki? Take care and stay safe.xx