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This is one of those hidden gems that you hear about, have to go searching for and are so glad you did!! In a city crammed with must-see attractions it was fantastic to just take some time out to explore the little known (to tourists) Promenade Plantée - Coulée verte (green course).
We opted to start at the Jardin Charles Peguy end which is at ground level and is rather low-key. Caught the Metro to Porte Doree station and had about a 10 minute walk via Avenue Daumesnil, turn right in to Rue de la Vega and then right again into Rue Rottembourg to reach the gardens. You will walk through a series of dirty looking tunnels and start to question why and as you wander along Allee Vivaldi you will actually wonder if you are lost but, rest assured, this is when it really starts to become interesting.
What was once an abandoned railroad track is now a 4.5 kilometre above street level garden promenade running almost the entire length of the 12th arrondissement from the Périphérique on the eastern end to the Place de la Bastille on the western end, with only the last couple hundred metres being taken up by the Opéra Bastille.
Starting in 1859, the railway linked the Bastille station to the station in Saint-Maur, 14 kilometres southeast of Paris, but became defunct by 1969. It was abandoned for years, becoming an eyesore in an already struggling neighbourhood. In the 1980s, the forgotten area got a makeover. Landscape architect Jacques Vergely and architect Philippe Mathieux turned it into a lovely parkway that was opened in 1993. Along the former railway line is a wide, tree-lined path with both narrow and wide spaces, some covered, some open. Rising up over the city, open spaces give way to gorgeous views, while enclosed stretches have shops nestled in the arches that were once part of the rail system. Along the path lies the Jardin de Reuilly, the square Charles-Péguy, the square Hector-Malot, and the Jardin de la gare de Reuilly, that features a preserved railway station giving homage to what once was. Among the plants that are found along this walk are hundreds of rose bushes, hardy shrubs, acanthus, triton, lavender, bamboo, ivies, vines, wisteria and cherry trees, maples, lime trees and many other varieties.
The Promenade Plantée gives you an elevated view of Paris. As you stroll down the straight line, you will find plenty of benches, an assortment of interesting art instalments, flowers abounding, green archways, water features and drinking water fountains!
The entrance sign to the Jardin de Reuilly states that the Garden is situated near the ancient Chateau de Reuilly which was a vacation house for the Merovingian Kings. More recently, the Jardin de Reuilly occupies the site of an old freight station. Created in 1992, the Garden covers 1,500 square meters. It includes a large circular central lawn, a series of beautifully planted terraces and walkways, a children's playground, statues, a rose garden and an open-air café. The main entrance to the Garden on Avenue Daumesnil is furnished with ramps making the Garden accessible for wheel-chairs and baby-strollers. However if you wish to continue along the Promenade Plantée you can walk across the wood and metal footbridge that spans the central lawn.
At times the greenery disappears and you're walking between modern-styled apartment buildings, and then there are long stretches of lush greenery opening onto metal bridges and open spaces. Iron structures and trellised archways are draped in vine creepers across the symmetrically-landscaped gardens. Wander through the bamboo archway.Take a seat on one of the benches and enjoy the tranquil atmosphere.
At the Bastille end, the original red brick arches of the 1.5 kilometre viaduct have been restored, renovated and enclosed with glass to become the Viaduc des Arts. It now houses arts and crafts workshops, galleries, furniture showrooms, a restaurant and a café. From here it is a simple walk to the Bastille roundabout and Metro station. On a hot day stop off at one of the many cafes for a refreshing drink.
It is hard to believe you are still in the centre of Paris.
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