The capital of the Khmer kingdom in northwestern Cambodia remains one of the most outstanding legacies of the ancient world. Many have the impression that Angkor Wat is a single temple, when in fact there are more than 40 sites still recognizable to this day. We visited a selection of these to get a taste of the different styles of architecture and construction methods. Totally fascinating and almost beyond belief that such intricate stonework could have been achieved such along time ago without the use of modern day machinery.

A Brief History of the Khmer Empire The fertile lands of Southeast Asia have been inhabited since Neolithic times. Around the first century AD, the area became a crossroads of trade between the sub-continent and China. The Indians greatly influenced all aspects of the local culture, introducing the great religions of Hinduism and Buddhism, as well as the basis for the modern language. The first millennium saw the emergence of great city-states which began to evolve into kingdoms and empires. Among the greatest of these was the Srivijaya empire based in Java, which at its height held influence over most of Southeast Asia.

Around 790, a Khmer prince returned from a long stay at the court in Java - whether he was there as a guest or a captive isn't clear. This young man became a great warrior who managed to subdue several competing Khmer city-states and declared a unified 'Kambuja' under a single ruler. In 802, this prince declared himself King Jayavarman II in a ceremony on Kulen Mountain. The first capital of the new empire was near the present-day town of Roluos, although there was a brief period around 802 when it was based in the Kulen Mountains. After his death, the next king, Indravarman III built one of the first major temples of Roluos, Preah Ko, in Jayavarman's honor. The next king, Yasovarman I, built the temple atop Phnom Bakheng, and moved his capital there in 893, creating the city of Yasodhara-pura. Except for a brief 20 year exception, the capital of the Khmer empire remained in the same area for the next 500 years.

Around 1177, the Chams (from present-day Vietnam) sailed up the Tonle Sap and attacked Angkor, sacking and occupying the city. They stayed on for four years, until the now legendary Jayavarman VII mounted a counter-attack and finally drove out the chams in 1181. Jayavarman VII was named king after he expelled the Chams. Unlike previous kings, he was Buddhist rather than Hindu, and made Mahayana Buddhism the state religion. He also undertook the most ambitious period of monument building that Angkor had ever seen. Hundreds of temples and other monuments were built during Jayavarman VII's 40 year reign, including the Bayon, in the middle of his new royal city, Angkor Thom, as well as the temples of Ta Prohm, Preah Khan and Banteay Srei, but he didn't build Angkor Wat. The greatest of all the temples at Angkor was built by Jayavarman VII's predecessor, King Suryavarman II, earlier in the twelfth century.

Angkor Wat - The "mother of all temples" - Angkor Wat. No photograph can quite capture the immensity of this monument (which may be a tomb as well as a temple.) Some of the apparent grandeur of the complex is due to clever perspective. The tip of the central tower is only 65 meters high, although its peak is more than 200 meters above the ground. However, many of the other statistics of the temple are still quite impressive. The temple is surrounded by a 200 meter wide moat. You cross the moat on a wide stone causeway to reach the outer wall, which itself is 5.5 kilometers long. Once you pass through the main gate in this wall, another causeway 350 meters long, leads to the inner sanctuary of the temple. The main temple is built on three levels. The first level consists of an open gallery, with the inner wall continuously covered with bas-relief depicting scenes from the Mahabharata, the Ramayama and other stories from the Hindu pantheon. It's nearly a kilometer walk to see the whole thing, but it's worth it. A flight of stairs leads to the second level which is less ornate, and a very steep stairway leads up to the top level with its central sanctuary. The temple was built by King Suryavarman II around the middle of the twelfth century, at the height of the Khmer empire's power. Its unusual west-facing layout has led many to believe that it was intended as a funerary temple for Suryavarman himself.

Bayon is in the middle of Angkor Thom. Angkor Thom is a large moated royal city, measuring three kilometers on a side. The complex was actually the last capital of the ancient Khmer kingdom, built by the great King Jayavarman VII around the turn of the 13th century. Within its walls were the royal palace and residences for all the king's family, generals and priests. At the very center is the state temple, the enigmatic Bayon. You enter this city through one of five large gates. Each gate is topped with four heads, facing each cardinal direction. We entered through the south gate which is reached by crossing a bridge over the moat, lined with a Naga serpent balustrade. Built in its present form about 100 years after Angkor, the Buddhist Bayon Temple is strikingly different than just about any other temple around Angkor. Its mountain-like structure is topped by 54 towers, each sporting four faces like the city's entrance gates. Although it might sound repetitive, each of the faces is slightly different. The meaning of the Bayon remains something of a mystery to this day. It is known that the temple was built on the remains of an older structure, and that it underwent many changes in the years after it was built.

We then stopped at a local place for lunch where we were swarmed by children trying to sell us things. I was wary of buying from children as I'd read about them being sent out to work instead of attending school. However our guide assured us that we would be helping these children as they go to school in the mornings and then sell things in the afternoon to pay for their education. One little boy obviously saw me as an easy mark…came running over and asked where I was from…I responded Australia and was then totally floored by the next question…..did I know Julia Gillard!!!!! Maybe he is learning something at school!!! I ended up buying some bamboo bracelets from him and settled down to have lunch. Just as we were finished lunch he sidled over to me and shyly said he thought I had a beautiful smile and must be a lovely lady and he wanted to give me a gift – a handmade bamboo ring – I tell you tears were welling up in my eyes as I graciously accepted his gift. It is amazing how the smallest thing can be so meaningful and that is one gift I will treasure forever.

We then boarded the bus and got to see a little of the Cambodian country lifestyle on our drive out to Banteay Srei.

Banteay Srei, This little jewel is located about 25 kilometers from the main complex around Angkor Wat. Built in the 10th century, it is quite small compared to the big temples of Angkor and is constructed with a pinkish sandstone instead of the gray stone used for the big temples. More importantly, the stone is finely carved to a highly intricate level of detail. So much so that the name, which translates "citadel of the women", is assumed to mean the carvings were produced by women rather than men. The temple was built around 967 by a Brahmin counselor to king Rajendravarman, and later, Jayavarman V. Banteay Srei is remarkably well preserved, especially given the delicate nature of the carvings. The temple was the first one of the sites at Angkor to be restored using a method called anastylosis, where the structure is disassembled and then put back together using original construction techniques.

Pre Rup. Pre Rup was built around 961, just a few years after the similarly designed East Mebon and located just to the south. The temple is built on a grander scale than the East Mebon, and is perhaps the best example of the temple-mountain style of structure. It's now believed to have been the state temple of king Rajendravarman II. Pre Rup is roughly square in plan. A three tiered platform is enclosed within two concentric walls. Between the two walls on the east side are two groups of three towers. Inside the second wall, and all around the first tier, there are long halls that were probably for use by pilgrims. The first tier is wider on the east side than on the other three. On either side of the east path on this level are large towers believed to have been libraries. On the top-most tier sit the five large towers of the central sanctuary, with openings to the east and false doors on the other three sides. With its brick and laterite construction, the temple is quite beautiful in the late afternoon sun.

Returned to the hotel with my head spinning with temples and rather sore muscles from climbing up and down stairs, over rubble etc etc. Definitely time to head down the street for a massage……I’m starting to get used to these daily massage sessions…..can
I afford to continue when I return to China……better see if I can do a deal with my TCM massage therapist I think!