A long while back (January 2015) we visited the Hook Peninsula and drove the Ring of Hook when Joan was here for James's 50th birthday. It seems hard to believe that was only two and a half years ago - so much water under so many foreign bridges since then. When we last visited, it was so wild and woolly that massive waves and piles of sea foam were crashing over the walls - and freezing cold. The thought of traipsing up 115 spiral steps to the top of a draughty old lighthouse just didn't appeal. But with the passing of time, a fine day and a two for one voucher on entry (at €9 each that is a big deal) we figured it was time to hit up the Hook peninsula again. We decided to mix up the drive a bit and took the Passage East car ferry across to Ballyhack Castle - absolute licence to print money - runs constantly and takes about 10 minutes to knock 40 minutes off the drive time. Great fun on a fine day. The castle itself is closed for 9 months of the year, so it was a quick walk around before we moved on to Duncannon Fort. We did expect that to be open but it was wishful thinking - closed 'til May 2018. Moving along past Templetown Church and Hook Church ruins we made it to Hook Lighthouse. Not just any lighthouse - it is the second oldest functioning lighthouse in the world (after the Tower of Hercules in Spain). It was constructed by Strongbow's son-in-law, William Marshall, Earl of Pembroke, between 1201 and 1240 so it's almost 800 years old. Even before that, back in the 5th century a wood fired brazier established by St Dubhan was tended by monks to provide a warning to seafarers. Members of the monastery became the first lighthouse keepers in the 13th century and stayed on until roughly the mid 17th century when professional lighthouse keepers took over. The house has had a series of lanterns over the years and finally converted to electricity in 1972 and then, in 1996 the lighthouse keepers finally moved out when it became fully automated. We certainly enjoyed the tour - hard to believe it's been standing so long and withstanding the wild coastal weather all that time. Even the interiors were fascinating - rib vaulted ceilings supporting the 4 stories of the tower - like standing in a medieval church - just one without any windows. After standing on the balcony right at the top (brrrrr... sunny day but chilly wind - only 17,334 km to Sydney!), it occurred to us we'd been peckish when we arrived - well over an hour before, so it was time to hit the road for New Ross and lunch. There was of course another castle to see along the way (very briefly). The remnants of Fethard Castle were charming. Though a traditional castle existed on the site in the 12th century, a more 'fortified posh house' was built in the 15th century. This was once occupied by the Loftus family (big name in these parts, they then moved into Loftus Hall). The castle was eventually abandoned in 1922 - and now sits like a ghost of Ireland's past on the main street of Fethard. Never quite figured out in these situations if it's the castle that's out of place or the modern small town surrounding it. Just a brief stop as lunch was truly needed by 2.30 pm.

New Ross is a sweet town (also established by Marshall, the Earl of Pembroke - so he could have his own town and port and not have to share with the lord in charge of Waterford. Of course.) It has two claims to fame these days - the Dunbrody famine ship and, more importantly, the antithesis of famine - TJ Bella's traditional fish and chip joint. We visit about once a year and they were the best they've ever been - so it was time for a car-nic (car picnic). From New Ross we headed home and via the miracle of google maps avoided the quagmire of toll roads around Waterford and managed to visit Grannagh Castle (aka Granny Castle). We've tried this a couple of times in the past but ended up on entirely the wrong, tolled road both times - so this was a huge success all round. Granny Castle sits on the banks of the River Suir and was once the site of a Dun Bhrain, a Celtic fort built in the 1st century. From here a ferry linked Waterford with other medieval cities such as Kilkenny and Dublin. Originally built by the Powers family who had all of Waterford country after the Norman invasion of 1169, it was given to the James Butler, second Earl of Ormonde in 1375. Granny castle was taken by Cromwellian forces in 1650 and partially destroyed. There's some interesting folk lore hereabouts that includes a tunnel that apparently went from the castle to the other side of the river - to allow for food and water in the event of a siege. Aside from that it was believed the Earls held court in the tunnel, that prisoners were held there and condemned men we even hanged in the tunnels. The Countess of Granny - Margaret Ormonde was believed to be a cruel witch who imprisoned her enemies there and let them perish. Apparently (nothing like 500+ year old gossip), her court jester was failing to entertain her with jokes one day so he fashioned a rope containing several nooses. She required his invention to be demonstrated and 7 innocent peasants were hanged from the battlements using the device... the Butler Knot then had to become part of their coat of arms. It's history like that that makes Ireland more and more fascinating by the day. But that was it for the day's explorations... home for a feets up and a snooze. Fish and chips just don't digest themselves you know!