So i tootled off further north, stopping at Taupo to look at the Craters of the Moon - bubbly, steaming thermal craters - continuing on in the dark to stinky Rotorua (or RotoVegas as the locals called it for some reason) - the real thermal/volcanic heartland of NZ.

It really does stink here - it's a combination of being trapped in the well of the Pump Room and a petrol station. It's decidely sulphurous but has a strange mineral/fossil fuel quality to it. I learnt later that crude oil does actually bubble up in the mud pools and geysers. I visited two thermal areas and was truly amazed. Such formations and to see the earth literally boiling, it was great. Photos (when they're on) are a bit endless but i loved the colours, the plopping mud and, at this time of year, the billowing steam. The geysers were fairly impressive too - despite the fact that some of them need a bit of encouragement i.e. 300gm of soap powder poured into them!

I also visited a Maori village and watched a show of their songs, dance and customs. I was really moved and had a bit of a cry! The picture of me and the Maori warrior is definitely at the top of my list of fave NZ pics! (He was a bit of alright actually!).

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