HAPPY KHMER NEW YEAR! I don't think we have smiled, waved and said hello as much as we have done in the last few days, at times we have felt like royalty, ha ha!

The journey to Battambang was one of the main reasons for going there in the first place. The boat trip along the river is supposed to be one of the most beautiful in Cambodia and offer a true insight into rural Cambodian life. And we really couldn't argue with that... As our boat cruised down the river past all the little villages and floating markets we realised we were getting a much more authentic experience than you ever get on organised trips. The children were so cute too - shouting and waving at us as they played starkers on the river banks or in the water, their happiness was infectious!

So although the boat was far from luxurious (we had to put ear plugs in to drown out the sound of the engine) and the fact that the journey took 9 hours (it's dry season and the boat even got stuck on the river bed at one point), we all agreed it had been a really good experience. Em was happy as she got to work on her tan and is now far browner than both me and Jonny put together!! Not fair!

We arrived in town just as the heavens opened for a huge thunderstorm! After spending a couple of hours recovering from the journey and a bite to eat we headed out to see what the Friday night scene was like in Battambang - only to find that there REALLY wasn't much going on, partly because its a small place but also because its Cambodian New Year and lots of places are closed! We walked around for an hour looking for a bar, getting mislead by fairy lights and ending up at a water treatment works! So the search for a bar was unsuccessful (although we did find what we were pretty sure was a brothel) and were in bed by 9.30pm but that was ok because True Lies was on tv!

After a nice lie in and a leisurely breakfast at a really good breakfast place just down the road, we decided we should probably put the day to good use and we set off in a tuk tuk to Phnom Sampeau. Here we explored the caves which were used to kill people by the Khmer Rouge, and climbed 700 steps to the top of the hill to see the temple and get a brilliant view over the whole of Battambang. It was absolutely roasting so it was sweaty work (standard - my sweat moustache is now usually a sweat goatee) but it appeared it is somewhat a pilgrimage that Cambodians so on New Year as the place was rammed with locals. They all seemed fascinated by us and were taking not-so-subtle photos when they thought we weren't looking!

The tuk tuk ride home was arguably more fun than the destination, as we got fully involved in the New Year tradition which is water fights! We were pelted with water bombs from either side as we drove, and even a hose pipe at one point! This was very welcome to help us cool down! Unfortunately we weren't very well prepared and the only way we could get them back was to use our water bottles. It was brilliant though and really good natured - don't think you would get that in England!

Wandering around town when we got back, a local guy put talc on our faces (another New Year tradition), which served to attract even more attention to ourselves! I was then in heaven as I had a cup of tea and a big filthy piece of carrot cake..... Amazing!!

It was still quite deserted later on when we headed out to get something to eat but we managed to find somewhere- although it seemed like every time we ordered anything, a guy had to go off on his motorbike to buy ingredients! Much to Em's frustration, the longest wait ever for a cocktail ensued, as apparently the expeditions first for daiquiri and second for Bacardi were unsuccessful, only to be made worse by the fact the waiter was too scared to tell her she'd have to order something else and he had to make his mate do his dirty work!

Afterwards we managed to find the only bar in Battambang that was open, conveniently right by our hotel be had some funky rum concoctions, which must have knocked me out as did not hear Jonny coughing that night at all!