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Day 2 - Namibia
Point of departure : Springbok, South Africa
Point of arrival : Luderitz
Accommodation: Luderitz Nest Hotel (www.nesthotel.com)
Km travelled today: 569km Cum: 1 222km (on dirt/gravel 144km)
Countries so far: 2/16
Where to next? Sossusvlei, Namibia
Number of photos: 136 (cum 244)
A latish start after trying to finalise some internet and email stuff, and a good breakfast at the Springbok Lodge.Just over a 118km to the Vioolsdrift border post with formalities on both sides not taking much more than 15 minutes. Goodbye South Africa we will be back in about 7 months!
From the border post we took a genuine short cut to Aus (which enabled us to avoid Keetmanshoop).This through the Ai-Ais Richtersveld Transfrontier Park along the Orange (or Gariep as its now called) River.A good dirt road but with lots of roller coaster hills and twists and turns.We travelled some of these roads in April and it was good to return …. the river and the countryside are really spectacular!
Apart from the river, the only real highlight was the feral horses of the Namib.The Desert Horses can be found at the Garub waterhole just outside Aus.After World War I, these feral horses of the Namib continually showed up at the Garub watering hole where the Germans used to supply their steam locomotives on the Keetmanshoop-Luderitz rail track.When the mining company took over this area, they installed new water tanks at Garub for the horses, as the old well had dried up.
Interesting fact - a scientific examination of the horses was undertaken to establish their blood line and the result showed it as being close to that of hot blooded Arabian horses.Another interesting fact is that these horses have a blood factor not found in any other horses.These horses have adapted to the desert and will only visit water every 30 hours or so, whilst in winter they can last out for approximately 3 days.
We arrived in Luderitz quite late, with John determined for us to have a glass of wine beside the sea and watch the sunset.However, the gale force wind cut this a bit short.The hotel we planned for was not quite up to scratch so we upgraded, but will now only stay one night and returning to Aus to camp at the Klein Aus Vista Resort on Monday night.
With regard to the wind, we have met a bunch of kite surfers, from all over the world, who are involved in an attempt to set a new world speed record.That just about says it all!
Luderitz is a sleepy, laid-back town with quaint, old German colonial buildings and a history to match.Bartholomeu Diaz (Portuguese navigator) - the first European to set eyes on this coast, took refuge from a storm in Luderitz Bay on 25 December 1487.He returned the next year and erected a cross on Diaz Point and named the spot Angra Pequena (Little Bay).It took another 400 years before any European power took any interest in Namibia.Reason that Bartholomeu didn't stake Portugal's claim was that there was no fresh water. During the diamond rush, ie Kolmanskop, fresh water (1 000 tons per month) was shipped in from Cape Town to Ludertiz and then taken by barrels to Kolmanskop across the desert.
Luderitz attracts lots of German tourists.Quite a bit of interest regarding our vehicle and our trip.
Day 3- Monday 2ndNovember - Luderitz
AccommodationRooftop tent at Klein Aus Vista
Km travelled today195 km Cum: 1 317km (gravel 45km cum 189km)
Countries so far:2/16
Where to next? Namibrand Nature Reserve
Total number of photos taken180 (cum 296)
After a good breakfast at our upgraded hotel, we took a drive out to Diaz Point.The wind out there seemed pretty strong to us but we learnt later that it was just a modest breeze by Ludertiz standards.Beautiful views from the point and a pleasant drive out by past second lagoon where we would see the kite surfers later.
Then on to Kolmanskop the Ghost Town - named after Kolman, a delivery rider who used to rest his horses at this "kop" (hill).In 1905 a worker Zachariah Lewala, picked up a rough diamond from the ground and took it to his foreman, August Staunch who promptly laid claim to the area.This precipitated a diamond rush and such was the supply that the diamonds could be scooped up off the ground.The vast wealth of diamonds resulted in a settlement living here in undreamed luxury. Then came the war and Sir Ernest Oppenheimer obtained options on the German mining companies for Anglo American Corporation and formed the Consolidated Diamond Mines of SWA.Eventually CDM had the only diamond rights for 50 years from north of the Orange River.This concession was then extended to 2010.The old mining town eventually was reclaimed by the desert.
To see the old buildings today, some very well preserved, others about to be totally reclaimed by the shifting sand provided a dramatic insight into the history of the time - only 80 to 100 odd years ago.From the main street where the general dealer, butcher, baker and icemaker all made their fortunes to millionaires row where the director, financial manager and architect etc lived in what must have been untold splendour for the time.
We then returned to second lagoon and the wind had now picked up enough for the kite surfers to be out training.Only six on the water when we left but still impressive watching the speed, dexterity and acrobatics.
Then on to the long and winding road, and more Mantovanni at full volume (thanks Brigitte we really love the CD), as we drove the 125km inland to Aus where we had our first night of camping.A beautiful evening with a full moon rising just before 8pm, penne napolitana for dinner and fairly early to bed in our rooftop tent.
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