Day 90 to 92 - 28th to 30th January - Aswan Egypt

Point of departure : Wadi Halfa

Point of arrival : Aswan

Accommodation: Basma Aswan Hotel, (www.basmahotel.com)

Km travelled today: 65km (cum 17 165km) gravel 0km (cum 4 649km)

Countries so far: 9/16

Where to next? Luxor

Total number of photos taken: 92 (cum 4 088)

After checking in at the hotel, we all met at, believe it or not… Mc Donald's at 19h00 for good old fashion burger and French fries. Then a blissful early night, a comfortable bed, clean sheets, no roaches, air conditioning and a wholesome sense of cleanliness. But it was a short night!

Day 91 - a 02h45 wakeup and collected 03h30 from the hotel for our trip to Abu Simbel - early start as the police convoy left at 04h00 sharp. As we drove out of Aswan, we crossed over the old Aswan dam, built by the British (1899 to 1902), but had insufficient capacity to control the Nile for irrigation and provide electricity for the whole of Egypt. As a result, President Nasser ordered a larger one built in 1950's. The new Aswan High Dam was opened in 1971 and formed Lake Nasser. With a total length of approximately 500km makes it the second largest artificial lake in the world.

We (including Alain and Christine) arrived at Abu Simbel (280km from Aswan, near the border with Sudan) on Lake Nasser at 07h00. Abu Simbel is the actual mountain into which the two temples dedicated to Ramses II (19th Dynasty circa 1279 - 1213 BC) were excavated. As a result of the flooding of the Nubian Valley and the formation of Lake Nasser, UNESCO (1964 to 1968) moved the two temples to higher ground. The whole operation consisted of cutting the temple into approximately 807 blocks and reconstructing the temples 65 metres higher and 235 metres inland from their original site. The temples were then put together and covered with concrete domes and cased in rock and sand.

The largest of the two temples, Great Temple of Ramses II is excavated some 48 metres into the mountain and the façade is made up of four 20 metre high colossus of Ramses II.Inside the temple, in the sanctuary, there are four statues ofPtah, Amun, Ramses II and Ra - this is the only room in the temple that the sun's rays reach eachtwice a year (22 February and 22 October) and in such a way that only Ptah (god of the underworld) is not illuminated.

The second smaller temple is dedicated to Hathor and Queen Nefertari. Its façade consists of three statues on either side of the entrance (each group comprising two of Ramses II and in the middle one of his wife Nefertari in the form of Hathor).

The temples are really quite spectacular on two counts.The first, is that at about 3 300 years old, the external carvings and the internal temple are still remarkably well preserved, except for the one of the four colossus of Ramses II on the exterior which has been destroyed over time. The interiors are an amazing concentration of carved figurines and carved walls, all beautifully executed in different hues and sizes interspersed with hieroglyphics and other decorative shapes in just about every aspect, it exceeds the wonder of the Ethiopian rock hewn churches. Secondly, the fact that it had to be moved block by block in the 1960's to accommodate the flooding of Lake Nasser (as mentioned above), is an additional wonder in itself even to the extent of the 19th century graffiti carved into the legs of the colossus, but no sign of the new joins which must have been made in rebuilding.

Within half an hour of being at Abu Simbel we looked across at Lake Nasser and lo and behold on the lake we saw the barge with the Beast and the two motor bikes on its way to Aswan - estimated time of arrival, tomorrow at 10h00. Quite relieved to know that at least the barge had left Sudan and was now in Egyptian waters.

Back to the hotel for an early lunch and catching up on some of that lost sleep.

Aswan - the ancient Egyptian name was Senyt and it separated Egypt from Nubia. On the west bank, facing the city, are rock-cut tombs where the Aswan nobility were buried in the times of the Pharoahs. Aswan is graced with a beautiful setting on the Nile. The Nile flows through amber desert and granite rocks, round emerald islands covered in palm groves and tropical plants and Feluccas grace the Nile. The city proper lies on the east bank of the Nile.

In the evening, we explored the souk with its atmospheric spices, perfumes, scarves and baskets. Bought ourselves clothes (see photograph). Tried to have tea on the terrace of the Old Cataract Hotel (named due to the location of the Nile's first cataract which is located here), but it was closed for renovations. This hotel was one of Agathie Christie's favourite and it was here that she had the inspiration to write her novel "Death on the Nile".

Day 92 - headed off at 08h30 this morning with our Mr Fix It (Kamal - mobile +2 (0) 121393492) to the vehicle registration office to apply for Egyptian registration and number plates for the Beast and motorbikes. (EP 56). On our way to the port, Kamal receives a call from the barge captain to say that he has arrived and is in port (insinuating he would like baksheesh [tip]). We arrive at 10h00 (pay EP8 each to enter the port) and then wait until 11h00 for permission to collect the Beast and bikes from the barge. From there back to customs and three hours later, as we felt our irritation levels rise as well as the costs, (EP522 for customs) we are given a Customs Clearance letter for the traffic department. Back in the taxi to the traffic department to collect an officer to come out to the port (as there is no traffic department at the port) to confirm the chassis and engine numbers. Then back to the traffic department to get another clearance certificate. Once we have this in hand we go back to the vehicle registration office to hand in the clearance certificate and collect the number plates… but first we had to purchase additional insurance (COMESA not recognised) - another EP512 later. With the insurance document and the number plates we head back to the port to collect the Beast… did we mention that the port is 16km from the city of Aswan? We attach the number plates… relief we can now drive away, the Beast has now been officially and legally welcomed into Egypt. At the exit gate lurk the customs officers, like expectant vultures around a kill (6 of them waiting to search the Beast). A little baksheesh and we leave it up to you to conclude the ending… and by now, 17h30 we leave the Egyptian officialdom and bureaucracy behind and head on our way.

Sadly, our friend new Russian friend Alexey was not so lucky. His carnet de passage had been extended in the Congo for an extra year (all official, above board, correctly stamped on the cover etc), but, as with Comesa insurance, the Egyptians do things their own way. Customs would not accept the Carnet without verification from the local RAC/AA.For this he has to travel to Cairo, get a stamp and return to Aswan. You cannot mess with Egyptian Customs when it comes to a Carnet, as a very forlorn Landrover Discovery with with Gauteng plates (SA) (commencing with B) attested… thick with dust, flat tyres and either left in a big hurry or ransacked!

What a day, but quite a lot to be grateful for as some travellers have had to wait two or three days for vehicle clearance from time of arrival. Kamal was certainly worth his fee and a little extra!

Believe it or not… back to Mc Donald's for a non-alcoholic celebration with our friends Alain and Christine (whom we are going to visit in Sisteron, France) and Alexey, and then an early night. This business of hanging around the port all day is very tiring!