We set off early to catch the dayime sleeper train back to Goa. The jurney was quiet surreal. We shared the carriage with an american family who lived in pondicherry on the east coast. The parents were a waterfall researcher, a doctor, the two sisters and then the three untra blonde kids. The little boy took to everybody and was jumping back and forth between bunks excitedly the whole way. In the next bay was a group of 8 english golden oldies, singing and laughing as if on their way to butlins. Amazingly it only felt like the 10 hoursit was. As it happened the americans were headed to Pallolem too and between us figured out which train to catch next just in time to get to the beach. The train was 'air cooling 'class and had dozens of fans on the ceiling. Only a few worked. We all booked into the same place for the night for convenience and organised rickshawsto the beach. We had to walk for ages along the beach as the rickshaw driver had,guesswhat, dropped us in the wrong place because he couldn't be arsed to do his job properly or be nice (overpaid and useless as usual). We stayed at the Cozy Nook huts which were up on small stilts but really badly made and just botched with any old bits of wood. We don't expect much but a little pride and craftsmanship would be nice. We just ate and crashed out planning to find another place to stay in teh morning. As it turned out it had a really cool cafe area with loads of space and hammocks etc but we still chose to move next door to Fernandes where the huts were up on 6ft stilts to catch the breeze and traditional. The peopel were nice and friendly too. We stitched up teh mozzy net and felt right at home. Unfortunately it dawned on us that Pallolem , however beautiful, is fully developed for the package holiday crowd. The beach and all the huts seemed to be oddly full of puppies. We went to teh market street and found some great bags and bought loads from this young friendly business woman. It was really pleasant and honest and we were all happy with the deal. We had to buy a few more from the other stalls to make up the stock and suddenly found teh traders to be nice to us instead of the usual scowls. We bought a load more from a young girl called Tina.