Days 12 - 15: 4 days trekking 50km and surviving the Inca Trail to reach the unbelievable Machu Pichu! First Day of the Trek from KM 82 of the ancient Inca Trail, Ollanta at 2800m to Yuncachimva-Ayabata at 3,300 metres altitude! A 4.30 am start, eeek, some dry bread for breakfast, buying some local wooden sticks for walking, we were finally boarding the bus both nervous and excited for the hours drive to the start of the ancient Inca Trail at KM 82! The drive through the valley was beautiful, snow capped mountains peaking through the cloud whilst the sun was starting to come up, we knew that this was going to be the most memorable and amazing trip ever. Following the train track down a dirt road to the start the poverty of the surrounding villages within this area was really apparent, young boys of about 6 walking with shovels over the shoulders with their fathers to work, cold and dark mud 1 or 2 room houses for the entire family with dirt laden children playing with chickens, old ladies bearing heavy wood baskets on their backs, all bringing back memories of other countries and the first Peruvian poverty stricken areas near Lima we had encountered. Surprising to see as this area is again considered some of the most fertile soil for farming. Finally we arrived apprehensively at the start bleary eyed and after having to sort an annoying complication with SAS about our porter baggage allowance in that they said we were 30kg over what we had originally told them as we watched the guy add over a kilo to everyone's amount...aahs!, then mum almost having lost her passport, we were finally, with bags, mats, doggy bags of sweets etc.. and sticks in hand on route to the official checkpoint start! Seeing the Inca Trail sign was an incredible feeling, to think that we were finally starting a dream that had been thought about for so many years and tackling it with mum and Ian also was just 'awesome', highlighted also by the official Inca Trail Entrance Passport stamp that we all got, wahoo! Would we get the exit one though..... Crossing over the main bridge, we had our memorable start group photo then off we set. The first part was so reminiscent of our Nepal trek, the most beautiful valley ahead with rocky green mountains looming all around us and 2 breath-taking snow capped glacier mountains in front and behind us, as we followed the Urubamba River along a fairly flat dusty track...... was this to lead us yet again into a false sense of easiness, I think so! On route we passed many donkeys laden with goods for the small amount of locals that live in the mountains and watched feeling incredibly guilty as porters with luggage including gas bottles, chairs, tables some more than a metre plus high above their heads weighing in at incredible weights of over 25kg passed us with ease. Most ran the trail in just sandals with hardly any water, without doubt these porters amazed us all with their strength and determination, all so that they can bring home those extra few dollars to their families many whom live in villages far away in remote areas of Peru such incredible people that we won't forget. Thank god the local ladies provided the odd refreshment stop for them all and many a time on route we all offered our water and sweets to the porters resting half shattered on the side of the trail, so thankful for anything you gave them... On route we also passed a few small shacks of local villagers, the difference though was massive compared to Nepal, this trek felt so remote already and the tranquillity and surroundings was becoming even more indescribable as we continued. Our guide Rubin stopped a lot taking breaks and on passing ancient Inca sites we learned of their purpose on this incredible route to the lost city and why they were built where they were, the Peru train passing also, how tempting was that to get on it! The Inca farming terraces built high into the mountain sides were incredible and after our first mountain climb of about 100m which killed us all, it was hard to take in how these people both built and survived within the landscape thousands of years ago. How unfit did we feel! Surviving our first up it was then a nice sandy route down, stopping to chill in the river we then reached an important part of the day, lunch stop! On arriving at a small local villagers house our porters clapped us in and had already put up a tent with table and chairs all set out for us it was incredible! Within a few minutes we were given drinks then sat down to what can only be described as the first of many 'ala carte' meals that were to come. The dishes blew us all away as much as the Inca trail itself, 3 courses of food that even I couldn't attempt to cook in a modern kitchen yet our cook and porters managed it over a small stove in just a single tent, wow! You would have thought we would come on the Inca trail, suffer the 50km and lose weight as a result but no way, with all this food we were eating putting on weight was definitely the name of the game! After a hearty soup, chicken dinner etc.. we were given an hour for a siesta then it was back to trekking. Rubin had suggested that today we walk an hour and a half further to another camp than originally planned so that we could get the start of the dreaded Dead Woman's pass out of the way. Although the idea sounded great, to see the reality of all that we had heard about for day 2 come alive in day 1 was daunting but we were up for the challenge. Soon the up started and for the next 90 minutes it didn't stop and my god it was tough on the legs and lungs, with us rising above altitude to over 3000 metres passing through Wayllabamba, the lack of air really hit you making it even ***********'t look up or onwards was the way I'd say, just try and walk and breathe! The view around was worth it though, arid rocky mountains, more stunning terraces and just an incredible remoteness that you were following one of the most famous ancient trails in the world with the snow capped glaciers getting closer all the time. On route we were passed by the 'red army' as we named them, a group of about 20 porters all dressed identically in red porter uniform as they hiked in unison laden with goods up the mountain. I laughed and asked them if they played for Manchester United as they passed me which to my amusement they seemed to understand and smiled back! Despite there being 500 people allowed to start the Inca trail each day and although we passed a few groups, it really didn't feel as over crowded as we expected and everyone was so friendly encouraging people on, making way for the porters and all in all loving being here despite the initial pain. Ads by now was at the front with the boys so for about an hour I plodded up behind like a steam train, pacing myself slowly and taking it all in. At one point I hadn't seen anyone for about half an hour and wondered if I had missed the first campsite but then finally the sign was ahead that I had made 3300 metres and the boys kindly clapped me in! Thank god day 1 was over and behind came through mum, Ian and the rest of the group, together we had all made it and despite now dreading the fact that day 2 was soon to arrive we all enjoyed the coffee, chocolate, biscuits and popcorn (can you believe it!) the chef had made for us to celebrate reaching camp. Again all our tents were already made and laid out by the porters with an incredible view of the Andes all around us, we had to pinch ourselves again as to what we were doing and where we were. That night we had fun meeting all of our porters and getting to know their names etc... Whilst in the middle of this 4 random llamas politely walked through!! Then after yet another 3 course lunch including yummy desert and the famous mint cocoa tea, we all crashed into our tents very early knackered and realising that the 5.45am wake up call meant an early night was needed!!!