From Darjeeling to Kolkata (Calcutta as it used to be known) we had to take our first sleeper coach! We'd seen these before and thought they looked quite comfy. You basically have a little compartment, above the seats, in which two people are supposed to sleep. It was just about bearable with two of us in there lying at opposite ends and the coach was at a standstill. When the coach was moving however it was impossible to sleep. The bus driver was constantly ...