Left Port Augusta and hit the outback proper. The scenery alternated between small trees and bushes, to open plains dotted with grey-green tussocks of grass, to salt plains and dry salt lakes. As we drove there were signs warning about wandering animals as we were actually driving through unfenced cattle stations. However we didn't see anything but a few emus, one with two small chicks, and a couple of very confused looking sheep.

Stopped at a rest stop on the way. George had tried to clean the solar panel in the morning, but found he couldn't reach it. At the rest stop we found two large rubbish skips at just the right height. So he parked the camper appropriately, and managed to clamber up and do the deed. More power to the people!

The next stop from Port Augusta was Pimba, at Spud's Roadhouse, and many warnings that this was the last fuel for a while. So we filled up, at over $1.50 per litre. In Augusta it was $1.25- to $1.27, and one discounter had it for $1.17.

We had looked through a website that recommended taking a slight detour here for those not in a hurry to check out Woomera, Roxby Downs and Andamooka. We had heard of Woomera, and knew there was an air force base there, and Roxby Downs was famous for its mining - both copper and uranium. But we had never heard of Andamooka.

Being the furthest up the turn off, we thought we would start there, then work our way back. As we approached the town we noticed mounds of rock and dirt all around the town. This is an opal mining town, and that is the typical way that it is mined.

We were also told that there was a good rest stop here, so after a long day of driving we pulled in just in time for happy hour. The rest stop was amazing, with toilets, barbeques, a children's playground, and showers that ran on $1 coins. This was all supplied by the town for a gold coin donation. Settled in for the night and took it easy.

This morning we went to check out the town, which George had scouted out on the bike early in the morning. Everything was within walking distance and very easy to access. It is a really quirky town. The whole place was fun and light hearted, and didn't take itself too seriously. There was a café at the community centre called The Yacht Club. It did have one old yacht on its side, and a water playground for the kids. There was also the Andamooka Boo-Teek, also known as the local Op Shop, run by the CWA.

We had a drink at the Yacht Club and found it to be as good as any trendy Melbourne café. It was run by a full on hipster barista, complete with a big bushy beard and a friendly pet dachshund called Fritz.

We also checked out the local Post Office, which did double service as the town museum telling all the history of the opal mining, and also as the local opal shop. The history was fascinating. Apparently opal was discovered in the 1950s and there was a bit of an opal rush. The town had been quite large at one point, but now most of the opal was gone. Apparently it was a better grade of opal than in Coober Pedy, but just a much smaller vein.

The Post Office had some wonderful gems, but at astronomic prices. We asked the local ladies at the Op Shop and they put us onto a fellow called Yanko. He was 94 years old, and had lived in Andamooka since 1959. He told us stories about Croatia, where he had come from, and coming to Australia after the war. A real character. And he also had some great stones at a fraction of the cost of the ones in the Post Office.

The local past time at Andamooka is something called noodling, which basically involves looking through all the rubble the miners have thrown out and checking if they missed anything. A few fellow campers swore they had found several valuable stones.

We did try. Didn't find any opals, but we did come out with two pearls of wisdom. Firstly - the flies are really annoying. Secondly - all that glitters is not opal, in fact it is more likely to be quartz. We gave up fairly quickly.

Another night at this great spot, showers in the morning, then back to Roxby Downs tomorrow.

GeogeY's bit

The campsite is best value with the added bonus of a little access to some 240V. In Port Augusta before we left, found an unassuming plug outside the sports club. Nice espresso to start the day. Then, here in Andamooka I tried the shaver from the power point in the shower, and this success led to an extension cord to the coffee machine for another nice espresso. Neighbouring campers from NSW and QLD seemed a bit puzzled. I call it "Café les Chiottes de Andamooka".

Spotted plenty of emus with their chicks around the place, they do not run away either.

Yanko is quite a character; I suspect he has a much longer name that was altered in 1958 when he landed from Croatia. Yankovic? Yankovanovic? Something longer?

After a detailed walk through the old cottages and dugouts, the place has a unique historical character, not as preserved from the past but more likely still in the past.

Andamooka, unexpected but greatly enjoyed.