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After our prolonged farm stay at Emu Park we thought it was time to start heading back south again, for two reasons - firstly just timing, to get back to Victoria as the weather improves (hopefully), but secondly we had a problem with the air conditioning in the van. We knew this was an issue and George had ordered some things online to fix it, but they hadn't arrived by the time we left. This means we can't run air conditioning as we drive, and we really can't open our windows on the highways. If we go any further north it will just get too hot.
So we have turned the corner and are covering some of the same ground again, but wanted to cover things we missed on the way up.
First stop was Rockhampton, and seeing the city when it's not all shut down for the public holiday. Apart from parking being harder, it really wasn't much different. The other thing we wanted to do in Rocky was have a steak, as it is the beef capital of Australia. On our last trip 8 years ago we found a pub that had $5 steaks. The cheapest we could find this time was $25. It was good, but not that amazing.
Heading south we decided to skip Gladstone, but had been told Calliope was very nice, and had a good free rest area on a river. We found the rest area north of the river, next to a historic village. There was another rest area on the south side of the river which seemed a bit nicer. We talked to the lady at the historic village, and she agreed that historic villages were everywhere and this one wasn't great. She also told us the toilets on the north side weren't working - because the owner of the caravan park had put quick set concrete down them to stop people camping there. So we moved to the south side camp and settled. We had checked out the town itself - very small and not at all exciting, so settled into the camp area for the night.
That evening and all night it rained and drizzled on and off, so we could not really enjoy the river views much, but in other parts of the country there was torrential rains and floods, so we really couldn't complain.
Next day we headed for Miriam Vale again, but this time decided to check out Tannun Sands which we had not seen on the way up. It is a very substantial town about 10 Km off the highway with a lovely beach and a nice esplanade of manicured gardens and picnic areas etc. They do that well in QLD. The weather was still a bit grey, but on a nice day this place would be magic.
Continued on and stopped at Bororen, just short of Miriam Vale. This town has the Big Giraffe Cafe (closed), The Big Record Shop (a bit of a hippy paradise) and the world famous Bororen pies which apparently the soldiers used to have on their way through as the train stopped to get water. Tried the pies - very good. Really chunky.
We spent the night in Miriam Vale, still a small and boring town. By the afternoon the clouds had cleared and the sun was shining. Why did that not happen this morning while we were at Tannum Sands? Anyway, quiet day, then onto Gin Gin in the morning.
Just outside of Gin Gin is a large free camp just off the highway, but we decided to go for the showgrounds again, because again we were at the stage where we needed a good shower and some clothes washing. We found the bakery with the scallop pies again - still just as good. We also tried a normal chunky beef pie at another bakery which had won various prizes, but it was not as good as Bororen.
The next morning we had the famous Scotchmen Market which we had missed on the way up. Not bad, but not great. Just outside the market a man was trying to sell catlle dog pups out of his car for $50 each. Sorely tempted,, but no.
We went on to Bundaberg for another two nights, but the weather remained cloudy and ongoing drizzle. And just to top it off it was a long weekend and the end of the school holidays. Most things were shut, and whatever was open was inundated with children as the beach was unusable due to the weather, We did try to check out Moore Park Beach on the way in, but the weather was not at all clement.
We checked out a market on Sunday morning, then had a look around the Bundaberg Barrel, home of the famous Bundaberg Ginger Beer. (Lots of bored kids.)
Next day we moved on to Childers, one of our favourite places, unsure what would be open or shut as Monday was a public holiday (Queesn's birthday, although she died a month ago.) It was teeming with activity, and our favourite cafe, Insane Caffeine was open and producing amazing cakes as before.
That night we met a German couple in the van next door. They have spent the last 8 years travelling arounfd the world in a yacht, but are now covering some of Aus in a van waiting out the cyclone season. When we realised they were originally from East Germany we had some great conversations about politics, climate change etc. Kindred souls.
We went on to Maryborough, another of our favourite towns. The sound of the clock tower chiming out the hours was like coming home. Spent a day looking through the town, and covered many Opp Shops that had been closed previously. Picked up some bargains. We decided to indulge in our last big town, so treated ourselves to a few coffees, then dinner at a Japanese restaurant. Now we feel we have covered this region well.
Georgy's bit
RockyII has the same appeal as the original. It was as interesting when it was "open for business" as on the day of Queen's funeral holiday.
Tannum Sands is Queensland's answer to Victoria's Port Fairy but still has a better esplanade and beach front facilities. It did display a bit of Victorian weather though.
Describing Bororen as a town is a stretch, yet it had a quirky charm and great pies. A stop for a pie is a must do.
Moore Park Beach is your trip back to the seventies with a caravan park and school kids determined to extract beach time despite the weather.
Childers and Maryborough are the All time favourites in this region. Manicured and well presented, with easy driving and straight roads "unlike Bundy" they have a welcoming appeal. The only problem is that I need to lose weight for the great food on offer.
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