We did go into Newcastle briefly after our Charlestown stop, but found it quite boring - just another big city. So we headed back for a quiet night at Belmont, with a ride and a stroll at the yacht club.

We were quite happy to set off the next morning, setting our GPS up for Nelson Bay. Its instructions were confusing, as ever, and we ended up taking a wrong turn and missing the highway. Now when this usually happens, she goes a bit crazy and gets us to turn at the next possible street, or do a U turn. She did none of this, but asked us to keep going for 5 km more. We assumed she knew something, and there would be another large road that would take us to the highway.

We assumed wrong - she started taking us through small and windy roads through all the suburbs of Newcastle. But now we were at her mercy, and could do nothing but continue. At one stage she took us into the industrial area, and we saw mountains of black coal, and the huge ships they were being loaded on to.

Eventually we hit on Nelson Bay Rd, and followed its long and sinuous curves through beautiful green stretches, and across many meandering streams. Nelson Bay is a beautiful and peaceful part of the world (at least at the moment when it is off season.) The whole region is called the Port Stephens area, with Nelson Bay being the biggest town, with a few streets of cafes, restaurants and specialty shops, as well as a beautiful marina. We actually stayed in Shoal Bay, another tiny township 2-3 kms down the road.

This area is ideal to be explored by motor bike as it is fairly flat, and the road follows the coastline. Around every head there is another bay, with another pristine beach, and a small township, every few kilometers. And that is exactly what we did, exploring every beach and town, and stopping for a coffee at one of the heads, with gorgeous views.

We decided to take a dolphin cruise, and there was a dinner cruise advertised on the Sunday night. Figuring this would be ideal for Mothers Day, George thought he would take me out since the kids were not on the scene. So we rang, and were told it was not running, as they had to have a minimum of 6 people, and there was no-one but us. But, we were assured the dolphin cruise was definitely running at 10.30 the next morning.

That night there was huge storm - thunder, lightning and pelting down rain. Every time I thought it had rained itself out, another onslaught came an hour later. And another, and another. By the morning the sky was grey, but mostly dry.

We headed off to the marina to try our chances. We found the boat, and another couple waiting to board. We waited for the other 4 people (the minimum of 6), but none turned up. Somehow this cruise was confirmed on just 2 people, as we had not definitely signed up. Even the crew were confused, and thought they were going to have a sleep in.

Anyway, we saw lots of dolphins, the sun broke through a little, and we had some fun in the net, and doing the Titanic bit in the prow of the boat. And the captain turned out to be French, a retired architect with a passion for sailing. So George had a good time practicing his conversational skills. A thoroughly enjoyable morning.

We spent the rest of the day looking at the shops, and I found a cafe you would love Faye - see the picture below. Decided to put your words into practice, Dean, "the Youssefs eat like kings." So we bought some oysters and barramundi from the fisherman's co-op, served with minimum chips from the fish and chips shop - a feast fit for royalty.

GeorgeY's bit

All these towns, with intricate waterfronts and holiday makers activities, are missing something. The balance between 'sloppy' and 'trashy' is totally elusive. For example The Entrance is excessively over developed, with too much everything. This turns it into a 'try hard,' and a tad trashy. There were too many cafes, with very little good coffee between them, high density multistory housing, polished and colored footpaths, water squirting playgrounds for the kids. And all this lies on a small area of a few streets. Add to that the quintessential activity of feeding the pelicans daily show. Some one should explain the word 'enough' to the council.

Yet, on the other hand, Swansea and Belmont are quietly shy, sleepy, and a tad sloppy. For how hard is it to find that balance? Hang on a sec! Found it.

Port Stephens, with all it bays, is at that balanced 'sweet spot,' and the result is 'Classy.' Natural beauty with just the right amount of services. Like Kelloggs says, "Just right, not too heavy not too light".

We stayed in Shoal Bay, a nice relaxed and classy locale with plenty to do without feeling pressed. As Eva said, we had a coffee at the top of the hill, and because we stopped first at the foot of the hill, I forgot to turn the fuel tap on again before the climb. So on a very wet day and a very steep hill climb, the machine started to cough and splutter, and I pulled ********* the throttle hoping to get to the parking. But at the worst spot it gave up, and I asked Eva to get off as quick as she can, and stood holding the front brake and sliding back assessing the case. The engine was restarted after allowing the petrol back, clicked the gear in, and got it to the car park. Phew!! Needed coffee badly. Then a 30 kms ride to different beaches, and beautiful sunsets, followed by rain pelting us on the way back. Can't stop now, and it is getting dark. Arrived wet and cold. Still worth every second and some pictures to prove it.

How to deal with a confused GPS?
We learned something today, didn't we?
The rule to follow is now set and firm.
Rule 1: When road signs are readable forget GPS instructions.
Rule 2: When she starts asking you to turn into "Humpy Crescent" or "Knackers Lane," expect a rough ride.

And BTW, the bike is still holding.