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We've just returned home at 5.00pm from our last afternoon in the Cotswolds. We've waited all week for some sunny weather and we almost got it. We had begun to think that we would need to stay here for three months from the beginning of June if we wanted to experience a week of summer.
Not exactly summer by our standards, as 20c with cloud and sunny patches was the best we have experience today. It was however a day when we got to see the Cotswolds from high on the ridges and it reminded us of the Vale of Umbria, green and gold patchwork fiends laid out across the wide valley. Coming along the ridge up behind Chipping Campden, the village was clear to see on the slopes below and the golden wheat fiends along the ridge contrasted with the blue sky. Now we understand why people are besotted by the Cotswolds.
We spent the morning packing for Paris and then after lunch drove to Bredon. I suspect Bredon isn't in any travel guide as there wasn't anyone other than a few locals around. Read the following and wonder why it isn't on the tourist map? I suspect the locals have payed someone to keep it a secret. Just up from St Giles, Ches found the thatched cottage she wants to buy. Unlike all the thatch we have seen so far, this is golden like the Cotswold limestone that the buildings are made out of.
There are 43 listed buildings in the village, including St Giles's Church and Bredon Barn (both Grade I), and the Old Rectory (Grade II*); the remainder are Grade II. A further 41 buildings were formerly listed prior to the abolition of the Grade III category in 1970. As is the case in most Cotswold villages, a variety of architectural styles and materials are in evidence, but almost all historic buildings are at least partly built from Cotswold limestone, quarried on Bredon Hill. Timber frame construction was used as a secondary material up until the mid-17th century (often not painted black and white until the 20th century).
The earliest surviving building in the village, the parish church of St Giles, is one of England's most admired churches. It is built largely in the Norman, Early English and Decorated styles. A substantial part of the nave, the north porch and the western tower arch date from the 12th century, with significant additions in the 13th and 14th centuries - the most visible being a tall, octagonal spire, dating from 1300-1350, made famous by the poet, John Masefield. A number of 14th century heraldic tiles are set in the sanctuary steps, showing the arms of England, France, Beauchamp of Powick, Beauchamp of Warwick, Mortimer, Berkeley and others. The church contains many interesting monuments, including several to members of the interrelated Reed, Copley and Parsons families.
To the west of the church is Bredon Barn, a late 14th century threshing barn (often incorrectly referred to as a tithe barn) measuring approximately 40 metres by 12 metres. It has an enormous steep pitched roof covered in Cotswold limestone tiles. Walls are of limestone rubble masonry, divided into 9 bays by oak posts on stone plinths forming aisles, and carrying the open timber roof. The barn was badly damaged by fire in 1980. Now restored, it is in the care of the National Trust.
We decided that we had to experience the Cotswolds from a height so went in search of a road up to Bradon Hill. Many false starts later, we found a road not wide enough for more than one car going up the hill and at the top four parked cars u belonging to ramblers, We took photos of the Cotswolds below and then set off for the summit. Through wheat fields. Hang on, wheat fields? Yup, they seem to grow wheat on any gentle slope even on top of ranges of hills. Through a woodland with the usual canopy letting in filtered light and so English. Onto another hill gradient and 200m on, still raising land. We gave up.
Back to the car and a drive through stunning villages to Evesham. This is the biggest town in these parts and when the bank in Chipping Campden closes shortly, will attract more of the local business. Apart from the occasional Tudor building scattered around town, the only significant features are the remnants of Evesham Abbey, the adjoining Market Place and the old almonry, There are probably many more site scattered around town however it was late in the day and Ches had decided that one last cream tea was needed and we had barely an hour.
I cannot finish however without noting that The Battle of Evesham was conducted here. "The Battle of Evesham (4 August 1265) was one of the two main battles of 13th century England's Second Barons' War. It marked the defeat of Simon de Montfort, Earl of Leicester, and the rebellious barons by Prince Edward - later King Edward I - who led the forces of his father, King Henry III. It took place on 4 August 1265,
With the Battle of Lewes, Montfort had won control of royal government, but after the defection of several close allies and the escape from captivity of Prince Edward, he found himself on the defensive. Forced to engage the royalists at Evesham, he faced an army twice the size of his own. The battle soon turned into a massacre; Montfort himself was killed and his body mutilated. Though the battle effectively restored royal authority, scattered resistance remained until the Dictum of Kenilworth was signed in 1267."
Simon de Montford was married to the Kings sister (Eleanor) and yet believed in representative government. Let's get this straight, not exactly democratic government so much as government by the elite (barons etc). Even so, he is regarded as the father of representative government in Europe.
We are now off for dinner at an Italian restaurant in Chipping Campden … as you do.
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Anne Your cottage is beautiful Ches!!!!!!