The only way we are ever going to get through this is with one step forward and two steps back. That means, I have to write this blog about our day traveling from Biddenden (Kent) to Asheridge (Buckinghamshire) while it's fresh in my memory. A memory that is seared from spending 2 ½ hours on the M25, traveling 130km…. skirting London from the southeast to the northwest. You think you've been in a traffic jam?

When I finish this blog, I'll then go back to Somerset and catch up on five days or so as we travelled back to Southampton and then on to Brighton and Biddenden.

We had decided that because Sheila insisted that it was a bare 2 hour drive from Biddenden to Asheridge, there was plenty of time to stop off at Scotney Castle and Tunbridge Wells along the way. So much time in fact, that we didn't need to leave Biddenden till 10:00am.

It's just as well we don't try and plan ahead with some sort of foreknowledge. It made for a very relaxing morning and early afternoon. It was only when we again engaged with Sheila around 2:00pm that we looked at her map that showed the M25 for 50 miles or so in dark red (that means traffic at a standstill) and two sections marked with little red +38m and +29m signs. I've never seen these in Australia with google maps. Basically saying that it would take that long to get through those two sections of the motorway.

As I write this on Saturday afternoon, I should mention that here in the beautiful Chiltern Hills on a farm, with the muggy temperature in the mid-20s, I am being serenaded by whistling kites …. And a kids birthday party on the farm next door. The whistling kites are at a slightly higher pitch than my wheezing.

Back to Biddenden. Scotney Castle was just 35min away so a leisurely drive past Oast houses and on long narrow country lanes. Driving through the Sussex and Kent countryside you'd be forgiven for wondering just what the funny looking conical roofs peeking from the old stone buildings were for. Some of Kent's famous Oast Houses date back to the 15th Century.and were used to dry out hops. Equipped with a fiery kiln, a drying room and a cooling room, the conical kiln roof is topped with an oast cowl to create a draft that kept the fire alight and was fueled by wood until the 17th Century when charcoal took over. A few are now museums but the majority very sought after homes. We've watched many British TV shows featuring this strange looking houses.

We arrived at Scotney Castle to be informed that we should have pre-booked our parking. They at least allowed us to drive down to the castle where Ches could alight and wait for me in the Tea Room. I drove back up to the entrance and parked in a pasture. I then walked down a track with three gates to open and close, through the fields to the entrance.

Immediately through the entrance I was confronted with the front of the manor house. It's as impressive as are most manor houses and had its intended effect on me. Not as ornate as most, but nevertheless designed to impress. I didn't linger, as I had to find Ches and decide on a strategy to take the castle.

Well, we didn't need to take it. It had already surrendered and turned out to be the most impressive feature of the estate. The following description summarises the history of the place. We decided that because the house didn't open till 11.00am, we'd walk down through the gardens to the original castle surrounded by its moat. This was going to be a test for Ches's hip, so we opted for the steepest path down and the gentlest back up. Didn't happen.

In the early 1800s, the family decided that the castle was too damp and unhealthy to live in, so they had the manor house built up on the top of the hill. It was the designed so that the lounge windows looked down the hill to the old castle and moat. To make it even more attractive, they deliberately destroyed the newer section of the castle at the rear, so that it "ruin". Other wealthy estate owners built "follies", they turned their perfect castle into a ruin. It works. This could be the estate that we have enjoyed the most. Instead of the planned hour, we stayed for closer to two hours. It was amazing photographically, and the gardens understated but so relaxing. The photos do a better job of telling the story than I can.

"The earliest record of occupancy on the land dates from 1137, and the oldest parts of the Old Castle were built in 1378 by Roger de Ashburnham.

Edward Hussey I purchased the Scotney estate in 1778. The Hussey family originally came from Worcestershire and moved to this area in the early 18th century. They made their money from the iron industry and continued their interest in this by working with local Sussex forges.

In the 1830s Edward's grandson, Edward Hussey III, transformed the estate. He hired architect Anthony Salvin to build a new house at the top of the hill overlooking the valley. Edward Hussey III had the imagination to transform the Old Castle into a ruin to act as the focus of his new landscape garden.

As a result of his vision, Scotney Castle is now celebrated as one of the most significant survivals of a complete Picturesque landscape. Edward and his wife Henrietta had six children who all enjoyed growing up in this idyllic setting.

Edward Windsor Hussey (known as Edwy) took over the running of the estate when his father died in 1894. He lived here with his wife Rosamond during both World Wars, hosting evacuees from the Kings' School in Rochester in 1939.

Edwy's nephew, Christopher Hussey, took ownership of the house in 1952. He was very aware of the decline of the country house in England after the Second World War and acted to secure the future of the estate by creating six flats in the house to improve its longevity as a home and provide income.

Christopher bequeathed Scotney Castle and its collection to the National Trust in 1970. The house remained the home of his widow, Betty Hussey, until June 2007 when it was first opened to visitors.

We didn't have the time, or to be honest, the inclination to go into the house. It's probably impressive, however we've seen enough interiors of the homes of the filthy rich. Anyway, I had to walk back up through the fields, retrieve the car, come back and collect Ches and head off to Tunbridge Wells.

On our way, we passed through a stunning village called Goudhurst. While we passed stunning old cottages and buildings daily, there just isn't the time to photograph them.

I'd asked Sheila to take us to the parking lot closest to the Pantiles. I should have mentioned that in the UK, every house and parking lot has its own postcode, so we were able to tell her the postcode closest to the Pantiles. Sometimes she gets it right sometimes not. This time, spot on. Entering this oldest part of Tunbridge Wells isn't that impressive. Just another town. When leaving, and driving up through the town centre and more affluent suburbs, most impressive. Grand old homes on the steep streets heading toward the motorway.

The parking lot hadn't been graded in decades and our new huge vehicle had the suspension for us to survive. New vehicle I hear you ask? Back in Southampton last week, we had a problem with our beautiful Peugeot 308 GT. Europcar's solution was to give us a C3 or C4. I haven't checked. It's big. It's fast, but it shouts at me to hold the steering wheel with two hands when I'm driving at over 60mph.

A local very kindly directed us across a pedestrian crossing and to a concealed staircase that took us down between the buildings to the Pantiles. The following blurb is from the commercial site representing the businesses there today.

"Beginning its life as a Georgian medicinal Mecca, The Pantiles was formerly known as The Walks and the (Royal) Parade, which leads from the well that gave the town its name.

The Upper Walk. The area was created following the discovery of a chalybeate spring in the early 17th century and is now arguably better known for its famous Jazz nights, diverse boutique shops and mix of popular cafes, restaurants and bars.

Retaining much of its original charm and grandeur of its Georgian heyday, The Pantiles and the surrounding area today remain a favoured destination for those who want to enjoy elegant surroundings just a short distance from the hustle and bustle of London.

The stylish architecture and the beautiful commons form the back drop to a truly inspirational shopping and dining destination."

"Elegant surroundings"? at a pinch, I guess. Certainly, it retains the architecture, however the pavers etc. were quite grubby and the buildings held together with fillers and sealants. Mostly very tired. White paint can only hide so much. We nevertheless felt that this was a rialto moment and we had to sit under an umbrella and partake of Ginger Lemonade and Blood Orange Lemonade with a slice of Red Velvet cake.

It's just as well we did, because from here the nightmare began. By this time, Sheila had taken a look at all the red on the google maps, and while warning us that there were breakdowns and accidents etc., she couldn't do anything about it. One of the worst sections had signage advising that the works would be continuing till the summer of 2025, AND, "If you don't see us, its because we are working offline". Seriously. How do you build a motorway "offline"?

You know how I said that the postcodes are linked to each individual property. Not always. The post code for the farm took us to a row of terrace houses 200m up the lane. Apparently you have to present Google with photographs as evidence to have them adjust their maps.

Anyway, we are here on the farm, looking across the pastures; whistling kites, blowflies and humidity … just like home.