I'm not sure what to write. I have been planning to do this walk for so long, looking forward to it and dreading it at the same time and it did not go to plan at all. A few mixed emotions at the moment that we had to take the emergency route out.

Day 1

We were picked up at 6am and had about an hours drive to the town of Calca where we visited the local markets to pick up some small things for children we encountered on our walk. Also had breakfast upstairs with the locals. We continued to to some Inca ruins, Ascasmarca and had a small walk at 4000m admiring the view and the ruins. Onto the township of Lares for our last real toilet and last minute supplies before another 20min drive to our starting point. Our llameros (porters who look after the horses carrying our supplies) were waiting for us so they could pack up and get going.

We grabbed our daypacks, did an offering to Paccha Mamma for good weather and set off. We started off at 3500m and walked about 10kms to 4200m, our campsite. Along the way we had small local children running up to us, along with their dogs. We stopped for lunch at a local village where our llameros and cooks had set up the cook/dining tent, toilet tent and put our bowls of water for us. Lunch was delicious as was all the meals. It started to rain while having lunch but then stopped.

We continued on our way and the rain began again so out came the ponchos. We called ourselves the colourful condom brigade. On the way, we had to make way for the herd of llamas that were carrying firewood for locals. We made it to our campsite where our tents were set up and our lovely thick mattresses were inside. Given some warm water to wash with and told to rug up. That involved putting on 2 pairs of socks, thermals (top & bottom), long pants, wool singlet top, shirt, fleece, gortex jacket, gloves and my woollen hat. Nice and cozy. We had a lovely dinner (meals were always 3 courses) and then we all popped off to use the toilet tent before going to bed at 7.45pm. Only problem with that, I was wide awake at 1am and found it difficult to sleep for the rest of the night, especially with the sound of rain hitting the tent.

Day 2

Well it turns out it wasn't rain but snow. Woken at 6am with some hot water to wash and a cup of hot coca tea (coca leaves, not chocolate) and I hear Juliette saying 'Tanya, there is snow out here'. I guess we asked for no rain, we didn't mention snow. It was a little chilly and the dining tent was flooded so we stayed in our tents and breakfast was served to us.

We set off at around 7am, heading for our first high pass of 4580m. A horse was arranged for Martha as she did not want to walk. Walking warmed us up, at first it was a rocky trail, became muddy, then slush, then snow. It rained at the beginning, then icy rain, then snow. It was beautiful and it was hard work but I managed really well and was really happy with how I was going. Small steps, breathe and keep going. Took about 3hrs to reach the top and it was quite heavy snow and wind up top. One look at Martha and we all knew there was no chance she was going to make it. There was also a consideration of whether it was safe to continue and whether the horses could get through, but as a group we never got to talk about the pros and cons of continuing. The choice was taken out of our hands, which is what is the most upsetting. As we only had one guide, the group couldn't be split. The next bit should have involved going down, up, down and then up to 4600m and the horse Martha was on couldn't go because the path is too dangerous, snow or no snow.

Our guide John, told us there was an emergency route which involved heading straight down to the lake and then keep going down to another valley. He was also concerned about the weather however there was really no choice, as Martha was not capable of going on. So we headed down the snow towards the lake. Once at the lake, we looked back up and the weather had cleared so we were all a bit upset. On the way, our llameros passed us, and they were in sandals. Their feet must be so hard. It was amazing to see them run past us.

Anyway, we continued on, provided with a hot milo for morning tea and then onwards. Snow eventually became slush again, till we got back to a rocky path. Crossed a few waterfalls that crossed the trail and tried to enjoy the scenery. Another great lunch and then down for about 800m to our campsite at 3200m. It rained most of the afternoon.

Got ourselves dried and changed, had our afternoon tea and a game of cards before dinner. Late night this night, to bed about 8.30am. Rained most of the night and had to get up to use the toilet at 4am. Not fun.

Day 3

So up this morning again with another hot cup of coca tea and bowl of water. Breakfast and then had our group photo with the guys who did all the hard work. Gave them their tip, and then we set off. Today we should have walked 11kms to the town of Ollantaytambo. Instead, we walked about 30mins to a road and got a bus to Ollantaytambo. Had a couple of hours to wander the shops and markets before getting our train to Aguas Calientes. The chef and assistant cook were bringing our bags but they hadn't arrived by the time we got on the train. Our guide told up he didn't know what had happened but they would come on the next train. The train started and then stopped. We then noticed the guys running down with our bags. Luckily the train had stopped so we were able to get them on board. About a 90min train trip and we checked into our hotel.

4 of us went and visited the hot springs and soaked our muscles. Not as hot as I like, but good enough. Back for a much longed for shower but the water was luke warm at best. We met up for dinner and went to this restaurant that did all different types of food, including Mexican. So tacos, burritos, fajitas and other food was ordered. We were all given a free pisco sour for coming in. About 90mins later, our food started coming out. Well, all the mexican food was basically pancakes with whatever stuffing we ordered - chicken, vege, meat. I ordered tacos and got a pancake. Couldn´t believe it. By this time I'd had enough so sent it back and they said they would fix it up but I said don't worry. Wasn't in the mood. Orla had ordered a glass of wine and saw them pour it out of the cask, and not the brand she asked for. So eventually, we all just stood up and walked out of the restaurant, leaving our untouched food on the table and didn't pay for it. I have never done that before but it was awful. This town of Aquas Calientes is purely for tourists as this is where you get the bus to Machu Picchu and everyone is out to get as much money out of you as possible. It is not pleasant.

Tomorrow we get the bus up to Machu Picchu and have a tour there. Can only hope the weather is better than what we have had.