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Fife - St Andrews
From the west of Scotland we drove across, via the ancient walled city of Stirling, with its amazing cathedral and castle high up on the hill and the Wallace Memorial Tower on an opposite hill, to our Servas hosts. They live in the converted "Old School House" in a village between Cupar and Ceres - about 20 minutes from the coast and St Andrews (the focus of Clint's golf pilgrimage).
St Andrews did not disappoint - it gave us surprises around every corner. We walked past the harbour (which was totally dry - always a surprise to see the boats about 4m down the harbour wall stuck in the mud) up to the Cathedral ruins. What an atmospheric and imposing structure. Somehow the imagined walls are even more impressive than the actual ones ! Strange - but true.
Walking through the little lanes and medieval cottages, imagine our surprise to stumble on the Old Course of St Andrews, the home of golf, toally unfenced in the middle of the town. Pedestrians walk over the first and eighteenth hole, even cars can drive through the lane ! Unbelievable ! History dictates however, as golf was played on the village common and this golf course still belongs to the town and not the Golf Club. The general populace therefore has rights of access and usage of the land on which the golf course has been developed. Really amazing - especially as one is used to the strict access controls of the South African golf clubs.
It was great to watch some fortunate individuals tee-off on this pilgrimage course, although the nerves certainly got the better of some. We made a mental note not to park along the side of the course the following day - our vehicle excess is a bit too high !
Walking around St Andrews, and admiring the incredible university buildings, we stumbled across some "only in Scotland" signs "Free Whisky with every Haircut" , "Breakfast - Porridge with Whisky". Haggis and Blackpudding form an essential part of the "full" Scottish breakfast. Tried it ...Haggis is great, blackpudding is not quite as good as the German Blutwurst equivalent.
The flowers - both planted in beds and baskets and wild along the side of the road are a lush and vibrant white, blue, yellow and red - just marvelous ! They continue to amaze me at every turn.
Walking back to our car via the harbour, the tide had come in and a very different picture greeted us. Again - the difference in the tides never ceases to amaze us. Also - never realised that swans would be happy in salt water.
That evening, with our hosts, we enjoyed the world famous fish 'n chips in Anstruther harbour. Must say - they lived up to their reputation !
St Andrews Old Course is closed to golfers and open to the public on a Sunday. How strange to see little boys kicking golf balls on the fairways, playing in the bunkers and running over the greens ! Whole families - with prams and dogs go for their Sunday stroll over the course. We walked a few holes, realised that the greens must be really difficult to play and then went to take some photos on THE most famous bridge (there was a queue - several passionate golfers had the same idea). We will be back and hopefully be drawn in the lottery for a T-off time (the only way one is able to play the course as a non-member). An amazing experience all around. We are taking the message on the sign leaving St Andrews seriously "Harke ye Back" .
- comments
Roger Brings back so many memories.Played St.Andrews with a dear, dear friend back in the 60,s when we wnt to the pro shop and paid our green fees and played the O and A with maybe, maybe,! 20 other people on the goldf course.My godsons step brother then went on to study at St.Andrews with Kate and William(dare I call them that!!) and yes, so many memories. Stay healthy stay happy/ LOL, Rand P.