G?day folks!

Thought I?d give Emmett a ?get out of writing the latest postcard free? pass and do the work this time around! It was his birthday an? all, just recently. Infact, let me tell you about how Em spent his 27th birthday.

Awoken at 5.30am by a whistle that was blown to let the ?cooks? know that they must start preparing breakfast. Now I use the term cook loosely as all they really had to do was make noise and open a box of semi-sweet tasting white rolls.

Needless to say Em declined their offer, never terribly interested in insulting his stomach that early in the am. Between then and around 9am the poor love tried to get a little more sleep, which trust me is very difficult when you have 100 smelly bodies in close confines, all knocking into your hammock with theirs. And me, trying desparately not to be excited about the fact that it was the first birthday we?d celebrated between us since that fateful meeting in Nando?s that splendid July afternoon.

Finally, able to contain myself no longer I thrust a brown envelope into his hands and waited for his reaction to the treats I?d arranged. After much grinning and feelings of specialness, Em spent the rest of the morning receiving birthday gifts and wishes from other members of our group.

Shortly before lunch seemed like the ideal time to stretch and exit the hammock for a refreshing shower. Unfortunately we must also use the term shower, loosely. Water from the Amazon, piped up through a hose sticking out of the ceiling of the toilet cubicle, more like. Mmmm, refreshing, no. Clean, doubtful. Infact we did wonder if we were cleaner going in than we were coming out of that shower cubicle!

Another whistle signalled the start of lunch. Point to note: bring plenty of fresh fruit and dry crackers if you have any respect for your stomachs, and that?s an absolute necessity if you?re of the veggie persuasion. Luckily we had stopped the day before at a Riverside town, so we had emergency supplies.

Few more birthday greetings and it was back to an afternoon of swinging in the hammocks and reading. Time just flies when you?re hanging in a hammock and soon the dinner whistle was blown, another plate of non-descript brown meat, hooray!

I was waiting not all that patiently for Em who took all the unusual circumstances in his stride and with great humour, to return to his hammock space for another surprise - the smallest cake in the universe. No Mum, I?ve not finally discovered my baking gene! I did however apply a creative technique to building a one candle birthday cake out of biscuits. I hope with all my heart that Em?s wish comes true, even if it?s just not to ever spend another birthday on the Amazon Ferry!!

Joking aside it was certainley a memorable birthday and we had a few drinks on the top deck to finish off the day.

During our float on the boat we did see pink river dolphins. Cool, they were just like regular dolphins, only in the river, and pink. Pink like the pink panther.

Things only got better since our arrival here in Manaus. We?ve had everything we have with us laundered, and oh the smell, so fresh and non-Amazon-like. I could just sit in my room and smell my clothes, bliss!

Yesterday we went on a full day trip on the River and many of it?s smaller creeks and inlets. We saw where the Rio Negro and the Amazon meet which is quite incredible. The Rio Negro is formed of darker (nearly black) water that has a different current to the paler, murkier Amazon. The difference is quite clearly seen where the rivers meet, and the temperature of the two is remarkably different also.

We reached a floating restaurant after spending the morning spotting various wildlife along the way. Behind the restaurant was a walkway, accessible only at certain times of the year when the water level is just right. The walkway lead to a beautiful garden of gigantic floating lily-pads. We were also lucky enough to see a Caiman (crocodile type creature) who had decided to sun himself just under the viewing platform.

After a quick bite (pun intended!) the next few hours were spent fishing for Piranhas! Steve was the champion with 5 catches of different colours and sizes, I caught a catfish and 1 piranha, then returned the little biters to their watery home, while Em perferred to simply take small chunks of meat for a swim on the end of his line. Forever the greeny!

On our way back to the port we engaged in one of the seven deadly sins and loved it ? SLOTH! Yes, we actually saw and petted a sloth mummy and her baby sloth who was tucked under her chin. Em held a tiny monkey too, and we also held beautiful Macaws that were kept by local families for the tourists. The trip wouldn?t have been complete without also having a quick hold of the local pet Anaconda, which was quite weighty and still shaped like its last meal.

What a fantastic day, not one mozzy bite!

Today we?ve had a more slow paced day, with a little sleep in, and a bit of time at the internet. We discovered that Manaus has a pay-by-weight, self-service icecream parlour. Delish!! Have also booked a couple of massages to work out the kinks in our backs that the hammocks gave us.

Until next time...

S & Em
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