Our next destination, Takaka, our sole purpose to visit this town was The Mussel Inn as recommended by Sharon. We were not too concerned with the lack of petrol in Bruce as our map indicated we would pass through many towns en route. These towns however, transpired to be nothing more than a cluster of houses which were passed by unnoticed. It was difficult to fully appreciate the lush green landscape as we silently prayed to see a petrol station soon. The road started winding up and up offering fantastic views but certainly no petrol stops. We eventually reached the top of the mountain and gradually started to meander back down the other side. With the fuel gauge now empty we put Bruce into neutral and coasted all the way down. Our admiration for Bruce grew as he miraculously made it to Takaka's petrol station without giving up.

Takakas hippy status was evident from the look of the locals, and after a spot of lunch we headed out of town to set up camp near the Mussel Inn at a pre-booked lodge which our guide book described as spiritual; run by hippy freaks would have been more apt. Directed to the camping area we were relieved to find the huge tipi empty and no other tents in sight. We were invited to join the hippies that evening for meditation and yoga, which of course we declined. A couple of guys arrived to pitch their tent just before we left for the pub who thankfully turned out to be normal and also there to visit The Mussel Inn. The four of us walked the 20 min down a dirt track to the pub, which despite being in the middle of nowhere was already very busy. We managed to find a table in the garden and ordered food and sat drinking refreshing cider. Nick had moved from UK to Nelson and Steve was out visiting on holiday. A few drinks later we learnt that Steve lives just outside Guildford and then we found out that he knows Tina and James very well - it really is a small world!

The excellent jazz / folk band started up and we went inside for a boogie. Many drinks later we wobbled back towards camp, stopping off to admire the many glow worms on the way. Steve never did make it back that night, but he turned up safe and sound the next day. It was an interesting night at The Mussel Inn!