A fantastic drive south which took us over densely forested mountains, along rivers and gorges and finally along the west coast amid dramatic cliffs, endless beaches and azure seas. We found a lovely campsite dramatically set at the foot of granite outcrop with views across the beach where we enjoyed the sunset and collected some pebbles for Tor! After dinner we supped a couple of Macs at the village's only bar before walking to the glow worm caves which was a bit of a let down as we only saw three of the things, or rather Jona did as Emma found out she's not into caves and waited in the pitch black at the entrance whilst Jona intrepidly ventured in armed with head torch.

The following morning we headed for Punakaiki's main attraction, the Pancake Rocks, and had prepared ourselves for some proper tramping into the bush. Ten minutes walk down an evenly tarmacked path and we were face to face with said Pancake Rocks. Not the morning's toil we had expected but impressive none the less. Layers of alternating soft and hard sediment which had been thrust up from the sea bed and weathered to give the impression of a big stack of pancakes.

There was, allegedly, a rather impressive blowhole near the rocks, but being low tide there was no show. We decided on a bit of lunch then to head back at high tide to watch the spectacle, but alas still no blowhole action, not a big enough swell apparently.

Too late in the day to head onto our next destination we decided on one more night in Punakaiki and after an afternoon lounging in the sun we hit the bar for a game or two of pool. We got chatting to a couple of old sea dogs (well ok, he was a thirty something Kiwi who skippered a 36ft yacht, she a twenty something Swede who skippered a 40ft yacht, very jealous!) We put the world to rites with them for a bit then took a trip to the beach to drink bottles of wine out of the back of their Land Cruiser and watched the sky darken and sea foam. We made it back to the bar just in time for last orders where the chef invited us all back to his 'batch' for a drink, even though Emma had slated his culinary skills! We were led to a static caravan where we endured just enough techno music and home brew as was polite before making our excuses and leaving. Not to mention the day glow blu-tak!